Italian laundry supplier Tonello introduces NoStone, a new mechanical treatment to replace stonewashing and even enzyme and ozone washing.

The post Laundry Supplier Tonello Declares the Stone(washing) Age Is Over appeared first on Denimhunters.

In this article written for the Danish trade publication, TØJ, I identify and discuss the three main reasons why denim never goes out of fashion.

The post 3 Reasons Denim Never Goes Out of Fashion appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Sixth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

It’s now three week’s since Jake and I launched The Denim & Boots Podcast. And honestly, we couldn’t have hoped for a more positive reception of it. Thank you to everyone who’s listening, sharing, asking questions, and generally just spreading the love 💙

So far, we’ve been telling our stories in episode #1, introducing the two key topics of the podcast in episodes #2 and #3, and giving overviews of the jackets and boots denimheads often wear with their jeans in episodes #4 and #5, respective.

Now it’s time to get seriously deep into what I guess you could call my topic; denim.

In episode #6, we discuss the five stages of making denim, and how they each affect the fades you can expect.

The five stages are:

• The raw materials
• Spinning
• Dyeing
• Weaving
• Fabric finishing

You can get an of the production of denim in my beginner’s guide. If you want to dive deeper into each of the stages, have a look at my ‘how denim is made‘ series. The making of denim is also a key part of my book, Blue Blooded.

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to episode #6 with the SoundCloud player above. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

The post Episode #6: How Denim’s Making Determines Your Fades appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Jess Murray aka @thepoorwillway

Name: Jess Murray

Birth year: 1992

Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California

Profession: Maker and the Big Cheese at Poorwill

How Jess Runs Her Instagram

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Jess: I started on Instagram about six years ago as a way to connect and spread the word of my brand (known as Aegis Handcraft back then).

I would only post product-related photos and kept my personal information private—especially that I’m a girl. It was just after the ‘maker video’ trend had picked up that I began to share more about myself, my dealings with ‘the feels’ (my journey with anxiety and depression), and of course the product I make for my brand.

Being a girl in this part of an industry that is very saturated with boys, I was able to express, through photos and captions, my story and the process behind the gender-neutral things I make.

Suggested further reading: Ladies in denim you should follow

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

J: As a business owner/entrepreneur it’s almost a no-brainer. Why wouldn’t you use Instagram as a way to connect with your target consumer?

My brand itself has grown substantially through Instagram, and for that, I am forever thankful. I find myself in an extraordinary position where my business and my (personal) profile are the same on Instagram.

I have been able to share quite a bit on this platform, relate to people feeling similarly, connected with amazing people from all over the world, some that I have had the pleasure to meet in person and turn into real-life friends.

I can never begin to express how humbled I am to be living out my dream job, finding my tribe, and being supported the way that I continue to be encouraged by the folks on Instagram.

As for my goals; to keep at it! I don’t care about the likes, the follower count, the minutia that for some reason really takes over and often can make a detrimental influence on what you’d prefer to post or the honesty that is often lost in translation when that is the focus.

If I get the likes, that great. If more people join in on following my journey, they’re welcomed. I do worry about how often those that would like to see my posts see them on their feed due to the changes in the algorithm. But then again, I have no power or influence on how Instagram runs their application, so I make it a habit to check in on profiles I enjoy. If I don’t see their posts in my feed, I hit that notification alert to get that notification whenever they post.

T: You recently changed your username. Why?

J: I did! It went a lot smoother than I expected too!

Long story short: Last year I went back to school, working on a law degree, which naturally called for a change in my routine and my schedule in how I make goods for my brand.

I also am pivoting to a mix of workwear and streetwear with Poorwill, and so the name change to represent the vast variety of product I’m looking forward to making just made sense. Bags, accessories, apparel, home goods, I would love to do it all!

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

J: I use Instagram as a form of texting often, can’t pass up on those memes! Checking on the app, I probably spend about an hour and some change, going through my feed, getting in contact with friends, and discovering new profiles and people.

T: How do you take your photos?

J: It’s about 95% self-taken and 5% with the help of others. Can’t go wrong with a stack of books, or tripod, and a remote to snap a photo!

T: Which tools do you use?

J: I have a camera that connects to my phone, working as a remote, so taking photos and video is convenient. I can easily Wi-Fi transfer the photos to my phone and post them quickly.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

J: I need to work on a calendar. I currently post in a very relaxed mood; in other words whenever I feel like it. But I can see how posting on a schedule can perhaps influence the algorithm, helping with growth and exposure. My day to day schedule varies substantially, so at the moment, I enjoy posting whenever I create something new and whenever I feel like I have something profound to share.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

J: This year has made it difficult to take photos outdoors, which I would love to do when it comes to my product shots, but the weather has been gross. I’ve been limited to taking photos indoors, but I try my best to set up near a big window and take in as much natural light possible.

Jess’ Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

J: Growing up, I was always a tomboy and loved myself a good pair of jeans. While I was in school finishing up my fashion design degree, I landed a gig as a denim tailor for a Levi’s flagship store, and my love for denim took off from there.

I love denim as a textile so much! I love how durable and versatile it can be, so when I began making bags, I was naturally drawn to using denim. I regret nothing! To date, denim is my favorite textile to work with.

In terms of sharing updates on ‘the deels,’ I often find relief in sharing my experiences and feelings with anxiety and depression. I am able to go back and reference a bad day posting and look back from a more positive day and reflect on the growth and strength I’ve earned through sharing and relating to others also struggling with ‘the feels.’

My hope within my community is to destigmatize mental health and create an environment where we should be eager to seek help when days get difficult and encourage one another to live their best self.

(Thank you for coming to my Ted talk. 😊)

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

J: I love a pair of jeans that I don’t have to baby. A comfortable fit with big pockets, and a clean look (with plenty of discreet details) are the way to my heart.

T: How do you wash your denim?

J: I have about 35 pairs? I can’t wear them all, some no longer fit (but I love and keep for inspiration) and others are in my full rotation.

For the ones I don’t wear too often, I have yet to wash them. I’m of the mindset that If they need to be cleaned (they stink, they are gross, I might get sick) I will wash them.

Handwashing and lay flat to dry is my go-to, but if they are filthy dirty I will machine wash them and still lay them flat to dry. Oh, I’m a huge fan of hot soaking my jeans to mold and fit them to my body so that will usually do for my jeans in terms of washing for a bit.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

J: I have so many favorite denim brands, and all for different reasons, such as budget, purpose, look, fit, needs.

Companion and Roy are my favorites in terms of detailing. The attention to detail while keeping the look clean and classic is something to admire.

Railcar is an easy go to, you get a lot of ‘bang for your buck’ with them, and they’re well made.

Levi’s, American Apparel, and Uniqlo are what I usually recommend to those trying to find a pair of dry/raw denim on a budget and are looking for a variety of fits.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

J: I love a higher rise, I find it to be the most flattering for my body, and a slim straight leg opening.

I love my Roys Kinda Specials because (it’s a men’s fit) the pockets are big; the rise is just right, and the leg opening is not too slim. I love a cuff, however wide or small, so I do for a straight of slim straight whenever I wear boots.

My pair of Companions are made to order, so they fit spot on and have all the bells and whistles. (They have an actual rope in the hem!)

I love a Levi’s 501, 511 or 514. The variety of rare/vintage jeans in my rotation keep things spicy in terms of fit and details. The Levi’s 606 is also a favorite of mine for women, though I wish all of my jeans were button fly.

If I’m looking for a skinny jean, Railcar’s Donnas fit is an easy go-to. They are my only pair of jeans with stretch, and they were extremely easy to break in.

I’m a big fan of soaking and altering a pair of anything to help it fit my body the way I would like them too, it’s not always possible to get a pair of jeans custom made, but hemming and hot soaking usually get them pretty close. If they are unsanforized, they are already in the lead for me.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

J: I currently rock a pair of Trumans, Red Wing moc toes, and Ralph Lauren (Chelsea boots.) Sadly, I’m a bit limited in boot options because of the size range that is usually available, but I sneak in a pair of Converse sneakers whenever I feel like it and get a variety of footwear this way.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

J: Converse, Vans, and a pair of Nikes are currently in my closet.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

J: Waffle knit tops, a good hoodie, and t-shirts are a big part of my essential’s rotation. And, every jacket I’ve made myself. 😊

T: Where do you buy your gear?

J: A variety of places, sometimes I thrift, or buy goods from people that hemmed their jeans too short or picked up the wrong size. Uniqlo usually for my basics, or I shop at small beautifully curated shops. Scout Classic in LA is an easy recommendation. I love Front General Store in NYC, Independence, Stock Mfg. Co., Mildblend Supply Co, are all in Chicago. The list goes on!

T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?

J: I don’t know that I buy things monthly. Generally, the stuff I purchase will last me a while, but I probably spend a few thousand USD a year on clothing.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

J: You wear clothes, they don’t wear you. I don’t like following the ‘musts’ and ‘rules’ when it comes to apparel. If I want to pattern clash or wear denim on denim on denim that day, I’ll wear it however I please.

Sometimes I’m feeling trendy, other days I want to dress like I’m on the set of a classic movie. I wear my mood. And I think the same way when it comes to fits. I’m not afraid to wear menswear (to find the look or fits I prefer) or alter clothing to fit me best.

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #45: @thepoorwillway appeared first on Denimhunters.

Read this FAQ before you ask Ruedi! 😉

Ruedi Karrer aka @swissjeansfreak has been collecting jeans for over 45 years. He has more than 40k followers on Instagram, many of whom consider him an oracle of denim. And he is.

One of the consequences of his popularity is that he gets a lot of questions. He’s told me that he some times spends up to an hour each day answers direct messages on Instagram. And many of the questions he gets are quite similar.

That gave me an idea; why not list the most common questions Ruedi gets with his answers in a blog post. So we did.

FAQ #1: Which jeans are best?

Ruedi: In my opinion, the best jeans are never-washed raw denim ones without any distressing, washings or other treatments. They have a smaller environmental footprint and also last longer than artificially destroyed jeans.

Suggested further reading: What is pre-washing?

In my experience, left-hand twill denim made from mid to long staple cotton, for example from Zimbabwe, are very durable.

In addition, roomier fits such as straight fits, bootcuts or tapered fits are put under less stress when they’re worn compared to tight-fitting skinny jeans. This means they’ll last longer.

A good pair of jeans is one that has gone through many indigo dyeing dips, not too fast, to achieve the dark intense colour tone, which makes the denim show great denim evolution progress over prolonged wear.

Also, they should be properly stitched, have nice hardware, and a good leather patch.

FAQ #2: What are your favourite jeans?

Ruedi: Raw denim jeans that weigh between 13 and 25 oz. and have a green cast and left-hand twill construction.

Some of my favourite jeans are my Lees, Benzak Denim Developers, and a pair of G-Stars from 1998.

But I like all raw denim brands that have a potential for ‘strong denim evolution,’ such as the Japanese brands Iron Heart, Samurai, Strike Gold, The Flat Head, Momotaro, Oni, Pure Blue Japan, Japan Blue, Edwin, Evisu.

From Europe, some of my favourite brands include Indigofera, A.P.C., Nudie, BDD, Hen’s Teeth, Ullac, Blaumann, Pike Brothers, Tulp, Paul Kruize, Natural Selection, Atelier La Durance, Denim Demon.

From North America, there is Tellason, Rogue Territory, W.H. Ranch Dungarees, 3×1, 3sixteen, Naked and Famous, Rising Sun.

And from Indonesia, you have Oldblue Co., Sage, Nobrandedon, Doublehammer, Workershield, Warpweft.

In the end, far too many!

FAQ #3: How long should I wear my jeans before the first wash?

Ruedi: I never ever wash or soak my jeans because I don’t want to lose the original raw denim colour.

FAQ #4: Why do you never wash?

Ruedi: I love the original raw denim colour much more than the royal blue tone you get after the first wash.

After the cotton yarn is dipped in the indigo bath, all fibres get surrounded with indigo, which turns into this deep blue indigo with chemical reaction oxidisation. An intense dark blue colour can be achieved after many dips.

When you wash an unwashed pair of denim jeans the first time, the chemical reaction will be finished and the original raw colour will be transformed into a royal blue.

Suggested further reading: How indigo dyeing works

To avoid this, some raw denim purists, like me, just never get their raw denim jeans in contact with water (except a bit of rain or so, which doesn’t affect the colour that much).

But there are some tricks to minimise the problems of never washing your jeans and extend the life of them (see FAQ #9).

FAQ #5: How do you recommend washing raw denim jeans?

Ruedi: Turn them inside out and hand wash in lukewarm water with a mild detergent and hang dry in the sun.

If you wash in the machine, turn them inside out, choose a cold water no-spin cycle, and let them hang dry in the sun. Never tumble dry.

FAQ #6: What was your first pair of jeans?

Ruedi: Levi’s 501 Big E jeans from the 60s followed by a pair a Wranglers from 1975.

FAQ #7: What are the oldest jeans in the museum?

Ruedi: The oldest item in The Jeans Museum is actually not denim but a pair of Carhartt duck pants from around 1930.

FAQ #8: Who invented jeans?

Ruedi: It was the tailor Jacob Davis who got the idea of putting rivets at all stress points of jeans. The story of blue jeans really begins on May 20, 1873, when Levi’s patented Jacob’s idea.

So, Levi’s was the first company to make riveted five pocket jeans.

You can read more about the history of jeans here.

FAQ #9: How to wear jeans without washing for as long as possible?

Method #1 for raw denim purists who never wash their jeans:

Ruedi: Start breaking in your new jeans at the beginning of the cold season (meaning from around October in the northern hemisphere) to reduce sweaty, smelly jeans already after a few days. This will not work in tropical areas.

Air them out every night on a hanger in the fresh air to reduce bad smells.

Buy one size too big to break in the stiff denim fabric in a more gentle way and to prevent a too early crotch blowouts. They will be less sweaty to wear as well and more comfortable.

Wear them in three stages: Office pants, outdoor pants, work pants. In the last stage, I don’t care if I wear smelly and dirty jeans since I have to take a shower after using them anyway.

Method #2 for denimheads who prefer to wash their jeans:

Ruedi: A quick soak before you start wearing them. Turn the jeans inside out and soak them in cold or lukewarm water to get rid of the starch, and then hang dry them.

Wash them for the time after between 200-400 wear days depending on your daily activities. This strengthens the fibres and gets rid of the dirt and smell. Turn them inside out and hand wash with a mild detergent in lukewarm water. If you machine wash, do it inside out in cold water on a no-spin cycle and hang dry them in the sun. Do not tumble dry!

Wash whenever needed as the jeans get too smelly or dirty.

In addition, you can follow the tips in the purist section to reduce smell and dirtiness between the washes and to extend the time before the first wash and reduce the amount of the following washes.

Of course, you can combine the tips and tricks from both sections.

Still not sure how to wash your jeans? This in-depth blog post gives you the answer!

FAQ #10: What should I do with my worn-out jeans?

Ruedi: First of all, wear them as long as possible. Next, try repairing to extend their life.

If they’re still in good condition but you don’t fit into them any longer or you just wear them, give them to friends or someone else or donate them to charity.

You can also keep them and repurpose them as scraps for repairing other jeans.

Your last resort is to give them eternal life in the Jeans Museum (especially if you have a vintage, or a really heavily broken in pair of jeans or denim jacket, no matter how trashed or even filthy).

By showing people the power of the natural evolution of raw denim, the aim of the Museum is to convince everyone to create their own personal fades with a long-lasting dark blue raw denim instead of buying cheap fast fashion, which will be thrown away after only a few wears.

Send your jeans donations to:

The Jeans Museum, Köchlistrasse 25, 8004 Zürich, Switzerland

Want to Learn More About Denim?

If you want a heads up whenever I post new stories, you can sign up for the free Denimhunters email newsletter.

We also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!

The post Ruedi Karrer Answers 10 FAQs He Gets from Instagrammers appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Seventh Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

We’re now a month into doing The Denim & Boots Podcast, and Jake and I have covered some of the key aspects of what it’s all about.

Last week in episode #6, it was all about how denim is made, and how the five stages of making denim affect the fades you can expect.

This week, we go back to talking about how you wear and style your jeans and boots. Specifically, we talk about the shirts that we and other denimheads wear with our jeans and boots, including:

• Chambray shirts
• Flannel shirts
• Oxford shirts
• Work shirts
• Jacquard shirts
• Hawaiian shirts
• CPO shirts
• T-shirts
• … and sweatshirts

Our discussion doesn’t go too much in-depth with denim shirts, which we’re saving for an episode about double denim 😉

The episode launched with the news of the rebranded and restructuring of The Flat Head, which was announced the weekend before we recorded. Throughout the episode, Jake and I end up agreeing that The Flat Heads has made some of the best garments in most of the categories we go through.

Subscribe, Rate and Review the Podcast

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

The post Episode #7: Shirts to Wear with Denim and Boots appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Ruedi Karrer aka @swissjeansfreak

Name: Ruedi Karrer

Birth year: 1959

Location: Zurich

Profession: Geographer and Founder of The Jeans Museum

How Ruedi Got On Instagram

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed? When did you join the platform?

Ruedi: After using several social platforms like Mynudie or Superfuture, I randomly found Instagram in 2011.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

R: I found out how easy it was to upload pictures with captions and hashtags.

T: How did you get your nickname (the Swiss Jeans Freak)? Did you come up with it yourself?

R: Yeah, it was actually just my own idea since I was sure that I must be pretty freaky for everybody with my super strong raw denim addiction. I used the same nickname on other platforms I was on before Instagram and on Twitter as well.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

R: About 2 hours.

T: How do you take your photos? (By yourself, with the help of others, etc)

R: I always take my pictures with my iPhone 6 Plus.

T: Which tools do you use?

R: I never use any additional gear; no tripods, no special lenses, never a filter nor PhotoShop, just the plain picture as it is.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

R: They’re all randomly taken. But I usually try to post in the morning to be able to check the reactions during the day.

On special events like denim trade shows, I always take some pictures that I post over the next days.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

R: Mountains or while working like when I’m cutting wood. I love both raw denim, mountains and working, so I try to combine them.

Ruedi’s (Very Special) Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

R: After our big family received 2 pairs of Levis jeans in a cloth donation parcel in 1973.

In this video interview, Ruedi explains why he’s so obsessed with raw denim.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

R: I love all kinds of strong, natural raw denim evolution like on the fly, front pocket scoops, whiskers, honeycombs, back pockets.

T: How do you wash your denim?

R: Never.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

R: I love green cast denim the most, and I love all raw denim brands with a lot potential for fading evolution!

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

R: Straight cut, and I always wear them a little oversized to make them more comfortable.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

R: A leather belt and my legendary sandals 😂

Watch this video where Ruedi talks about his sandals and other quirks.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

R: Asics.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

R: My beanie from @hattersanonymous, my running shorts, and many T-shirts.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

R: Sneakers and outdoor equipment in an outdoor store, denim items I have more than 50 pairs on my waiting list since I’m a too slow fader so no buying anymore.

T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?

R: For myself, less then €20 per month. I have too many items and they will last longer than I’ll be alive.

For The Jeans Museum, I spend about €300 every month for some new raw denim gear.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

R: Just wear them a little bit oversized to have them comfier and do some outdoor activities in them and avoid water as long as possible

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

… Want more Ruedi?

If you can’t get enough of Ruedi, and you haven’t seen it already, check out this fantastic mini-documentary that Benzak Denim Developers made about The Jeans Museum.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #46: @swissjeansfreak appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Eighth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

In the eighth episode of the podcast, Jake and I talk about his favourite topic; leather.

For this episode, we’re introducing listener news stories. If you know or read a story you think we should cover on the show, send it to us!

You can pitch stories by sending an email to podcast@denimhunters.com or by reaching out to either me or Jake directly on Instagram.

Of course, you can also still send us questions that we’ll answer at the end of the episode.

News this weeks

Before we get to the topic of the week, I share the news that the jeans and boots store Brund in Copenhagen (where I – full disclosure – work part-time) is celebrating 15 years in business this year.

That milestone is celebrated with a collaboration with Lee 101, which is released on May 15, 2019. You can sign up for the party here.

Topic of the episode: Leather and how it’s made

We start by providing an overview of the process of making leather and the different stages that it involves. After that, we talk about the primary types of leather that’re used for boots and jackets, respectively.

Our discussion of how leather is made is based on the four stages of the process that I identified in an in-depth blog post on the topic I posted earlier. I’ve put in a summary of that post below, but you can also read the entire thing here.

Stage #1: Preparation

Leather is animal skin that has been preserved to prevent it from rotting. After it’s been slaughtered, the animal is skinned and the skin is preserved in salt. The fur, fat and other unwanted parts are removed.

Stage #2: Tanning

This is where the proteins of the skin are turned into a stable matter. There are three methods:

1. chrome tanning, which is done with chromium;
2. vegetable tanning, which is done with tree barks and similar;
3. and combination tanning.

Chrome-tanned leather is softer and doesn’t discolour or lose shape as drastically in water. Veg-tanned leather is firmer and ages more naturally.

Throughout the episode, Jake argues why he thinks vegetable tanning is the best way.

Stage #3: Processing

This stage involves processes such as splitting, shaving, re-tanning and dyeing.

Stage #4: Finishing

In the last stage of the process, leather makers work with the surface of the leather. Different methods are used to level the colour of the leather and cover grain defects.

I go into much more detail with the processes in the blog post about how leather is made.

People and companies we mention

• Badalassi Carlo (who makes Minerva leather)
• Brund
• Clinch
• David Himel of Himel Bros.
• Freewheelers
• Horween (who makes Chromexcel)
• Illya S @illcutz (who’s answered my Q&A here)
• John Lofgren
• Mister Freedom
• Motor
• Real McCoy’s
• Red Wing
• Role Club
• Simon Tuntelder
• Shinki Tannery
• Truman
• Uwe Meier of Amtraq Distribution
• Wesco
• White’s
• White Kloud

This list of brands and people we mention in the episode is a new initiative that I’m trying out based on listener feedback. In case I’ve forgotten someone, please let me know 😉

Gallery of items Jake mentions

You can see more pictures like these on Jake’s Instagram profile @almostvintagestyle.

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

The post Episode #8: How Leather Is Made and Types of Leather appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Lars Esmarch aka @redheadbluebottom

Name: Lars Esmarch

Birth year: 1988

Location: Aarhus, Denmark

Profession: Journalist

How Lars Runs His Instagram Feed

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Lars: It actually started exactly when my first daughter was born back in late 2016. I had four weeks of parental leave (yay, Scandinavian welfare model!), which were obviously spent getting to know the baby. But they also left some time to play around with denim photography.

I had been lurking on there for quite a few months and could spot a very forthcoming, open community, so I decided to get into it myself.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

L: Because it’s awesome. The people are awesome, and it’s a great way to get in touch with likeminded people – but also brands and shops.

Actually, I’ve found that I spend quite some time talking to the people behind the brands I like and the shops that sell the stuff I like. For example, I often talk to folks like TJ from @theshopvancouver, @thomas.von.stuff from stuf-f in Düsseldorf and Bryan from @ritestuff.official.

Instagram offers a kind of contact and dialogue with brands and shops that you won’t find if you just email them. It’s a great way to assess whether I’d ever want to spend my money there.

As for goals, I don’t really think about what I want to do with my profile other than sharing my outfits and connect. I have no specific plan.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

L: I’d say around 30 minutes total, but I don’t keep tabs. I definitely could spend A LOT more time there if I wanted to (or had the time), but I find I’m not actually that drawn to opening the app just out of boredom like I do with Twitter or Reddit. I’d rather ‘save up’ some interactionand  high-quality posts and check in a few times a day 😊

T: How do you take your photos?

L: I take all my photos myself, usually just using my iPhone’s self-timer, which isn’t optimal for photo and framing quality. I occasionally use my DSLR for detail shots, and I’m sure my profile could be elevated if I used my camera more and with a remote, but I just don’t have the time.

T: Which tools do you use?

L: iPhone 6s or my Canon DSLR with a 35mm f/1.8 lens.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

L: I don’t have a plan or think about peaks or anything like that. I post when I feel like it, when I find a cool spot or think of a cool detail.

I will say though that I usually get ideas for posts from some of the recurring ‘days’ in the denim community like #moctoemonday, #redwingwednesday, #fadefriday or #selvedgesunday. Especially the latter two usually give me some idea what I could post.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

L: I’ve always wanted to find that one great spot where I can get some sort of consistency to make the outfits speak for themselves. And I think I just found it actually!

I started a new job a few months back that has this room with great lighting and pleasant furniture and plants. The only downside is that it’s a room that people often use for phone calls, so I’m always dreading someone walking in on me self-timing a photo, I imagine it probably looks completely ridiculous, haha! 😅

Lars’ Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

L: I thought a lot about this, and I actually think I got into denim and the heritage style way before I actually started caring about it and buying high-end denim, without thinking about it.

Some years back, I watched One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest where Jack Nicholson’s character McMurphy sports the most effortlessly cool mid-century outfit of faded 1955 501s, Red Wing 877’s, a chambray shirt, an A-2 Jacket and a watch cap. I obviously didn’t know anything about the specifics, but I think it left a sort of lasting impression at a time where I wasn’t really into clothing at all.

That style would later reappear while I was browsing Pinterest and Instagram, where I found out there was a whole community revolving around this style. That’s what really drew me in; the fact there were people so obsessed and nerdy about this stuff.

I have a very easy time getting into new hobbies and furiously researching every little detail about something I’m interested in (I used to be heavily into vintage watches, for example), so the denim thing kind of made sense in that regard.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

L: The fact that I can wear them all day, from before 6 in the morning where my kids get up, on my bicycle commute to and from work, at work, at home playing with my kids on the ground, all the way until I go to bed in the evening.

T: How do you wash your denim?

L: Machine, 40°C, no spin, hang dry. Every time.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

L: Japan Blue. I still haven’t found another brand that can nail that blue colour. They’re also really well made and they’re great value for money.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

L: Straight leg, medium-to-high-rise, hemmed to accommodate a single, small cuff. I like Japan Blue’s 05 cut, TCB‘s 50s and 60s cuts, Sugar Cane’s 1947 cut and Iron Heart’s 634 cut – the classic’s really.

I wore slim and tapered jeans a lot, but only recently discovered that the straight leg is actually what fits me best, and that they actually come closest to all those classical outfits in movies and old pictures that I really like.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

L: I have three pairs of Red Wings: The 8111 (the classic, utilitarian boot), the 2942 (for snowy winter days or mud) and the 2990 (obligatory black boot).

I always keep my LeatherProjects (now Dahlman1807) key fob on me. And I have this old black leather jacket that I got in Egypt some years back.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

L: Nike’s Air Force 1 07 Suede in Mushroom/Mushroom/Gum Brown. I love suede sneakers with that tan or beige look.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

L: Lady White Co.’s ‘Our White T-Shirt’. It’s just perfect. I don’t really need anything more than my jeans, sneakers or boots and then this shirt. I have like 5-6 of them at all times in my wardrobe.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

L: I go out of my way to shop at my local heritage menswear store Blue Caviar in Aarhus. Brian is an awesome guy and I often go there just to hang out for a bit.

When I’m looking for stuff he doesn’t have, I mostly shop online at European stores like stuf-f, Rivet & Hide, Meadow, Cultizm or END Clothing.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

L: Embrace the full, straight leg fits. Yes, that’s right, drop your slim tapered leggings and come to the dark side (we have cookies!). Wear your shirts open with a high-quality white tee underneath and the sleeves rolled up. Jackets are important. Hem your jeans. Magically grow out ginger hair (this one might be too much to ask).

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #47: @redheadbluebottom appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Ninth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

In last week’s episode, we talked about Jake’s all-time favourite subject within the world of heritage style (that’s leather). This week, we’re talking about something else he actually likes more than denim, and that’s chinos and trousers 🤷🏼‍♂️😅

News this week

For this episode, we don’t have any “real” news to share. But we do have a couple of updates on some stuff we’re getting for ourselves.

On that note, we’re now asking you listeners to share any denim and/or boots related news you know about that you think as should talk about. You can send your suggestions to the email address podcast@denimhunters.com, which is also where you can send us questions.

Topic of this episode: Chinos and trousers

For our discussion of the primary topic of this episode, Jake and I start by giving an overview of the most common styles of chinos and trousers. That list includes:

• 5-pockets
• Chinos
• Pleated trousers
• Work pants
• Fatigues
• Dress pants
• Overalls

Next, we talk about the various types of fabrics that’re usually used to make chinos and trousers, including:

• Plain weaves
• Duck canvas
• Twill
• Tweed
• Herringbone
• Stripes
• Wabash
• Corduroy

While talking about these different fabrics, we also mention ways to style them.

People and companies we mention

• 3sixteen
• Anatomica
• Brain the Bootmaker (Role Club)
• Burgus Plus
• Freenote Cloth
• Freewheelers
• Iron Heart
• Marvaments
• Mister Freedom
• Nick Hollows
• Nigel Cabourn
• Ooe Yofukuten
• orSlow
• Pigeon Tree Crafting
• Railcar Fine Goods
• Rogue Territory
• Stevenson Overall Co.
• Studio D’Artisan / Orguiel
• @vedgesus
• Viapiana Custom Denim
• Wild Frontier Goods
• @wizardof32oz

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

Featured image by Jake @almostvintagestyle.

The post Episode #9: An Overview of Chinos and Trousers appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Panuwat aka @paronly

Name: Panuwat W. Phienpit

Birth year: 1967

Location: Bangkok, Thailand

Profession: Business owner (architect by profession)

How Panuwat Takes His Great Photos

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Panuway: I love arts and more importantly I really love taking photos. Before Instagram, I used Facebook to share my lifestyle, family and other stuff that I found worth to keeping and share to the world.

One day, I was introduced to Instagram and found that it suited my preferences better,  especially my lifestyle photography. I’ve been on the platform since April of 2017.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

P: My goals are pretty simple.

First of all, I want to inspire people around the world that share my interests. In my case, I use denim, boots, and vintage gears as a medium to connect the dot between myself and rest of the world. I’ve loved denim and jeans since I was a teenager. And I told myself I would wear denim till the very end.

Secondly, every single day, I try to record my life. This serves for me to look back at what I’ve done and worn. And, more importantly, my family can check in they think of me and what to know that I’m still alive 😄

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

P: On average one hour, maximum two.

T: How do you take your photos?

P: 98% by myself

T: Which tools do you use?

P: I have six basic tools that I use:

• Olympus OMD E-M5II
• Olympus lens 45mm f1.8
• Olympus lens 25mm f1.8
• Mini tripod
• Samsung Note 4
• Snapseed app

T: What’s your editorial flow?

P: The flow is based on my daily life. I believe this will be sustainable and achievable because it’s my life and it’s real life without trying too much or too hard.

I plan what to wear each day. Some days, I might wear things differently or add photos that I love but not too much to lose focus on the context of my Instagram identity.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

P: At home and in the office are my two favourite locations. Both places are very convenient to take photos in. It saves a lot of time as well. However, whenever I take a trip, I love to explore as well.

Panuwat’s Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

P: I’ve always worn denim. Ever since I was young. Now I have some spare time, so I just simply show my passion to the world.

T: How do you wash your denim?

P: Normally, I do not wash my denim at all until the fade is pretty intense. Usually, more than a year. Then it’s time to taking care of business. I wash my denim with clean fresh water and mild detergent. Nothing fancy or special.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

P: So far, it’s Iron Heart.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

P: I have two favourite fits that fit my body and age 😅 Actually, it depends on the style of your boots as well. That’s why I normally wear both fits.

I wear a low rise straight fit with my 8” to 10” logger and engineer boots. And I wear a low rise slim fit with 6” and 8” moc toe and Iron Ranger boots.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

P: I’m a Red Wing guy. The majority of my boots are Red Wings. But it doesn’t mean I don’t like other brands.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

P: I have a few pairs of sneakers. My favourite is adidas.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

P: Gem stones, silver pendants, rings, and bracelets.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

P: Mainly in Bangkok. New stuff I mostly buy from Pronto. Used or vintage gear I buy direct the owner or online.

Suggested further reading: 10 Popular Archetypes and How to Style Jeans

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

P: Good question! For me, I truly feel ‘young at heart’ – I’m turning 52 this year. I wear whatever I want, but denim has to be the main part of my style. I mix and match many styles.

I would be honoured if my profile can inspire people to express themselves.

If you look at my Instagram profile, you can see my style playing from the worker, the rock ‘n’ roller, the rebel, the minimalist, or the cowboy.

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #48: @paronly appeared first on Denimhunters.

A Review of the Indigo Veins x Göteborg Manufaktur x Denim-Base GBG001

Making your own jeans is probably a dream for many denimheads. For Swedish denim blogger Alexander aka Indigo Veins (who’s Blue Blooded Instagrammer #4), it’s a dream that’s now coming true.

In partnership with Jonas and Olof from the Gothenburg’s denim destination, Göteborg Manufaktur, Alexander is releasing a collaboration jean together with Japanese brand Denim-Base.

From Dream to Reality

It all started in 2017 when Alexander was visiting Tokyo. There he met Shingo Oosawa, founder of the small scale denim brand, Denimbridge. A few months later, they started planning the collaboration.

Denim-Base is a brand Shingo-san runs together with Kuniyoshi-san, mostly known for his own one man-brand Double Volante, and Kana-san who runs the denim brand El Canek.

So, what does it feel like to make your own jeans, I asked them via email?

It’s a very fulfilling and at the same time humbling experience. I think many denimheads can relate to the thrilling idea of making a pair of jeans just the way you like them.”

Alexander

“We’re very pleased with the result,” Jonas adds. “It’s a great feeling seeing how all the work with tiny details pays off in the end.”

“Having studied textile production, it’s a great feeling to work with small family businesses that have mastered their craft for generations,” says Olof.

Here are the key features of the jeans:

• 14 oz. denim with light pink selvedge ID (specially developed for Denimbridge)
• Special patch with the harbour cranes of Gothenburg
• Olive herringbone pocket fabric
• Iron buttons and copper rivets
• Dyed in Hiroshima by Sakamoto
• Woven in Okayama by Yamaashi mill
• Sewn in Okinawa by Kuniyoshi-san of Double Volante himself

Let’s take a closer look at the denim and the details.

The Exclusively Developed Denim

The unsanforized 14 oz. denim was recently developed by Shingo-san exclusively for his company. It has a real vintage vibe to it, they write, and is quite similar to the good times of Cone.

The yarn is spun from blended American cotton and dyed in Hiroshima. It’s woven in Okayama by the Yamaashi mill on a Toyoda shuttle loom.

The tightly woven fabric looks a little flat at first, but Alexander says it crocks like crazy once washed giving it more texture as the warp yarns pop.

The yarn is twisted to the limit, which makes the denim stiffer after washing. This in turns makes creases sharper and makes the train tracks from the selvedge lines appear more sharply.

Another geeky detail is the very light pink selvedge ID. It’s not located in the same place on both ends; on one end, it’s in the centre and on the other one it’s dead close to the indigo yarn, something that in rare cases was found on vintage jeans.

The Design and Details

The 1960s has been a key source of inspiration for the design of the jeans. It’s a smart fit with a mid-high waist, enough room in the thighs but with a taper, giving the jeans a slim look.

“We love vintage details but we never set out to make a 100% reproduction,” Alexander explains. “We’ve taken the details we love and thought could work well together in order to make a modern pair of jeans that still has the essence of times past.”

Vintage Levi’s from the 1940s and the Lee 101B were key sources of inspiration.

“This is where we’ve taken inspiration for iron buttons and both the denim and pocket fabrics,” Alexander elaborates. “And Lee’s classic spade back pockets, of course. But Ooe Yofukuten has also been an inspiration for the cut. I don’t think anyone does a 60’s cut as well as they do.”

Also drawing on details from 40s jeans, the pocket bags are made from olive herringbone fabric. Classic 1960s details include the lack of hidden rivets and a paper patch brand patch.

Suggested further reading: The Branded Defining Features of Jeans

Looking Back … and Ahead

Good things take time and the jeans have been in the works for a year and a half. It’s taken many turns to get all the details into place; from thread colours to hardware and fit, designing the special patch and choosing the fabric.

It’s been a ride,” Alexander writes! “Pretty much 18 months of back and forth with ideas, concepts, working out the cut, details and so on. Working with great craftsmen made the process much easier.”

But why not make the jeans in Sweden?

“The main reason is the level of craftsmanship; it’s not up to the level we wanted,” Alexander reasons. “Secondly, this was a great way for us to work with people in the business that we like and respect.”

Finally, I asked Alexander if they’re planning to make more products together?

“Currently, there’s nothing else in the pipeline but time will tell, there are many garments that we would like to make.”

The jeans are available for pre-order via Göteborg Manufaktur.

Want to Learn More About Denim?

If you want a heads up whenever I post new stories, you can sign up for the free Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post 40s Meet 60s In This Collab Between Swedish and Japanese Denimheads appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Tenth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

We made it to 10 episodes! Yay!! 🕺

If you’ve been with us since we launched in the beginning of April with the first three episodes, thank you! ✊🏻 If you’re new to the podcast, welcome! 👋🏻

Ever since the first episode, Jake and I have been learning and improving. Mostly in terms of how we run things behind the scenes with things like how we prepare for each episode to stay focused and how we edit it once recorded.

For this episode, we’re doing something a little more drastic as we’re changing up the format from a two co-host discussion setup to having a guest on the show.

Topic of the episode: How jeans are made

Since we’ve now talked about leather and non-denim trousers for the past two episodes, respectively, it’s time to talk about jeans! It’s time for an episode I’ve been looking forward to doing; the one about how jeans are made.

And who better to talk about this than someone who’s actually making jeans. That’s why we invited Ben Viapiana from Viapiana Custom Denim onto the show.

Ben is a second-generation tailor and one-man brand. On the episode, he explains the steps he goes through to make a pair of jeans, from drawing the pattern to the last stitch. He also shares the story of how he got into denim, including the role his father played.

We really hope you’ll enjoy this episode as much as we did making it.

Links to things we mention

You can learn more about Ben’s jeans and order a pair from him on his website viapiana.ca.

On Instagram he’s @viapiana_custom_denim.

The blog post that Jake did about Ben, you’ll find it here.

And the blog posts that I’ve done about how jeans are made, those you’ll find right here.

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

Oh, and before you browse on, check out the video below that Ben recently released.

The post Episode #10: How Ben Viapiana Makes His Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Mike CCH aka @indigoshrimp

Name: Mike CCH

Birth year: 1988

Location: Melbourne

Profession: Medical doctor

The Story of Indigoshrimp and Mike’s Instagram Routines

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Mike: I had been active on my Indigoshrimp blog and the denim forums since 2007, and for a few years, I really enjoyed being part of the forum communities.

I would consider myself to be perhaps part of the second wave of Japanese denim enthusiasts in Western nations; guys with a love of Japanese denim who were not necessarily interested in pure Americana or collecting vintage.

The community was built on the back of Japanese streetwear enthusiasts who gradually ‘discovered’ Japanese denim – these guys moved onto newer trends after a couple of years, but they left behind a small but dedicated community of denim heads.

After some years, however, I burnt out from this hobby, due to a variety of factors. Don’t get me wrong, my love for denim and work style never left, I simply grew tired of social media after a while and had many competing priorities in my personal and work lives at that point.

I remember there also being much fighting and gate-keeping within our community during that time, and, to be honest, not everyone in the hobby or industry were very nice to be around.

So, I decided to take a break from clothing-related hobbies for a few years. It was in 2012 that I took a long holiday from the digital side of this hobby – my blog and my internet presence went into hiatus.

However, in 2016, as I was browsing some Japanese denim catalogues from years past, my passion for our hobby was lit once again. So, I returned to the denim communities and started to catch up on the latest developments.

I found many of the old denim blogs dead, much like my own, and the participation on older community platforms such as Superfuture’s Superdenim to have dropped very significantly. Yet, new communities and platforms had arisen in the denim world, reddit and Instagram chief among them – I sensed that our hobby was very much alive, and in fact had grown and widened in a manner, which I did not expect.

In starting to blog again, I was looking for a platform that could integrate with my blog, but also connect me with the denim community in a much more immediate and interactive way, and Instagram seemed like the perfect tool. It was then I arrived late to the platform, in 2016.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

M: I was attracted Instagram due to its utility in networking and communication, for which traditional blog platforms were lacking. Instagram is also much more compartmentalised compared with the old forums, and thus it is much easier to filter out people or content with which I would not want to connect.

My goals are to keep up-to-date with brands and makers, as well as keeping in touch with like-minded hobbyists.

It would seem to me that many of the modern platforms, including Instagram, are much more individualistic, superficial and transient compared with older ways of networking and sharing in the denim world. So, I will continue to write on my blog – it serves as a personal journal in some ways, and allows me to take some snapshots of our denim hobby, from my own perspective, across time.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

M: Perhaps 30 minutes or so. Up to an hour if there are active and important discussions in my chats.

T: How do you take your photos?

M: Mostly by myself.

T: Which tools do you use?

M: Olympus Pen Mini camera with macro and wide-angles lenses, Sony RX100 V camera, and Pixel 2 phone.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

M: My feed is not planned at all, and is mostly a by-product of any blog reviews or articles I happen to be writing at the time.

My Instagram account is not monetised, nor meant to be a professional product, so there is no strict schedule or protocol with my flow. I try to keep my photo gallery hobby-focused, and share more of my private life in my ‘stories’.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

M: Around my home. With work and family commitments, I usually do not have time to seek out nicer photography locations. I also tend to focus on small details, and usually then, the location does not matter too much as long as there is adequate light.

For photos of leather goods or workwear accessories, however, I do like to seek out interesting or organic surfaces to serve as background for photos.

How Mike Got Into Denim

T: How did you get into denim?

M: I remember my very first denim was a pair of Oshkosh overalls when I was very young. In my early school years, my mother bought me my first pair of ‘nice pants’ – a pair of Tommy Hilfiger jeans. These were perhaps my earliest memories with denim.

In my teenage years, when I could choose my own pants, I started wearing Roberto Cavalli jeans. I thought, at the time, that these outrageous Italian denims would help me be more successful with the girls.

By chance, however, I came across some Edwin Japan jeans, and they were unlike any other jeans I had worn in my life. The denim was thick, unwashed, rugged and intensely textural. The cut was much wider than I was accustomed to but much more masculine. These Edwin Blue Trip and SEN jeans spoke to me in a way no Italian or American jeans ever have.

After doing some research online, I became a big fan of jeans made by Sugar Cane, owning a few pairs from their Satobiki line. The SC40300, hank dyed with 100% natural indigo from Ryukyu, were my first pair of truly high-end Japanese jeans – I still have this pair in storage, in fact.

I remember some of my other earlier purchases included jeans from brands such as Eternal, Samurai and Studio D’Artisan. At the early stages of my hobby, though, my interests were very much limited to jeans only, and did not extend to leathers or jackets or boots. I was young, very fit, and liked to run around in tank-tops and D&G shoes … again, very much dressing for the opposite sex, though the denim was becoming something just for me.

In retrospect, pure reproductions from the so-called Osaka Five group of jeans makers did not truly resonate with me. Of course, like most hobbyists back in the 2000s, I went through strict reproduction and also military reproduction phases of the heritage-wear hobby. But these styles did not stick for me. However, in studying the history of work and military clothes, my appreciation of garments and leathers had grown, and my exploration of these various clothing styles has informed the current state of my denim hobby.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

M: I love how this relatively simple garment has the ability to resonate with so many different people across the world, and my favourite jeans have always been those which combine Americana with inspirations from another culture.

Literally speaking, the most important aspect of jeans, for me, is the denim itself. The denim needs to be a star on its own – the appearance of the warp grain, the hand feel, the dyes – I need a denim has certain star qualities which will hold my interest.

T: How do you wash your denim?

M: I wash my denim like I would most of my cotton clothes: with natural detergents, around 40 degrees celsius, in a washing machine.

Shade drying is my favourite way to finish. If I need to shrink the jeans a little, however, I would not hesitate to throw a pair into the dryer.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

M: I have been really enjoying Tanuki and Oni’s jeans in the last two years.

Oni Denim had always been one brand which I would consistently watch on Rakuten, but I had never purchased many pairs in the past as their fits were much too loose for my liking.

In the past few years, however, Oni has modernised its jeans. Now, with a great combination of boundary pushing fabrics and nicely fitted tapered cuts, Oni Denim has become one of my default options. Sometimes I wish they still kept the vintage-style of sewing on their jeans though.

Tanuki Inc. is a very new brand, perhaps, fourth wave Japanese denim? The brand, currently, ticks most of the boxes for me out of all the jeans makers: Custom developed high-end fabrics. Vintage-style sewing finished in sleek modern aesthetic. Premium detailing, including deerskin patch and 100% custom hardware. Minimalist appearance with no arcs. Modern cuts that fit a more developed physique and flatters the lines of the body (rather than hiding it).

Tanuki might be new, but they are absolutely slaying.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

M: The high tapered cuts from both Tanuki and Oni are my current favourites. I do enjoy similar cuts from other Japanese makers too, but they have mostly not optimised this type of fit just yet.

I enjoy these due to my unusual build for someone of East Asian descent, being taller and thicker, so a high-waisted tapered cut provides good comfort whilst maintaining fitted silhouettes.

Further, most people I know in real life tell me I look much better in high tapered jeans rather than vintage-style straight jeans, and I tend to agree.

On a side note, I also love a good boot cut, but as they are not in vogue, none of my favourite makers have made any good ones recently.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

M: I write many leather goods and boots reviews on my Indigoshrimp blog, so I am always testing belts, wallets and boots from different makers. The side-effect of being a blogger is that I can never stick with any particular garment or accessory for very long, before having to move onto the next piece.

Generally speaking, I prefer work-style wallets and belts, but occasionally dabble in Western-style belts too, mostly hand-tooled and hand-carved ones. Work-style leather goods are made out of thick, vegetable-tanned leathers, built for durability and practical use, to outlast several pairs of jeans. The Japanese were the modern masters of this style, but increasingly new leather craftspeople in Western cultures are reclaiming this type of leather craft.

Certainly, since the beginning of my blog, I’ve been steering denimheads away from Japanese factory-produced leather goods towards one-man workshop crafts. For leather goods, it is, without doubt, best to custom a private artisan.

For shoes and boots I am torn between mid-century Americana and the English style of country footwear. However, as my lifestyle has become much more physically active over the past two years, with a return to resistance training and walking as a hobby, I am wearing sneakers more and more nowadays.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

M: Onitsuka Tiger and Nike Air Force. These were my childhood sneakers, and they evoke fond memories.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

M: This would be a tight contest between vests and work-style trousers.

I really enjoy sashiko vests in the warmer months and Beach cloth vests when the weather cools down.

In terms of trousers, I love heavy corduroy as well as salt ‘n’ pepper twills.

Stifel style indigo twills, or wabash, is another favourite, but only if the discharge printing is fun!

T: Where do you buy your gear?

M: I am lucky enough to have several denim-specialist stores here in Melbourne – shout out to Corlection, Lieutenant & Co., and Godspeed.

Also, I often shop online with Denimio and Okayama Denim.

For leather goods, I prefer to support private craftspeople rather than purchase from shops.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

M: I am a little more eclectic in approach compared to other hardcore denimheads.

Why not mix things up a little – include fabrics and dyes from different cultures, combine details from different time periods, maybe take some inspiration from modern pop-culture too – don’t wear denim like an uniform.

Some of my default combos are below:

• Henley shirt (tucked) + Beach/sashiko vest + heavy work belt + heavy twill trousers + English country boots
• Flannel shirt (untucked) + loopwheeled T-shirt + belt with statement buckle + denim jeans + American-style work boots
• Chambray shirt (tucked) + duck canvas vest + narrow work belt + cinch-back work trousers + mid-century style work shoes

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #49: @indigoshrimp appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Eleventh Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

I have to start with a warning: This is the longest episode we’ve put out so far! That’s mainly because we’re taking on a quite extensive topic. But also because we had no less than six listener questions to answer.

The topic of this one is a list of what we consider the best of the best jeans and budget-friendly alternatives in the five most common categories of jeans. Even reading that out loud is a mouthful.

The five categories are:

• Japanese repro jeans
• Modern Japanese jeans
• Modern Western jeans
• Heavyweight jeans
• Bespoke jeans

Before we get to the topic of the show, Jake and I address two pieces of constructive feedback we got from listeners. I’m not going to spoil it for you, but the key arguments are that Jake is talking too much and that we’re too brand snobby.

Category #1: Japanese repro jeans

These are more or less exact replicas of original jeans from the 20s to the 60s. By far the most common source of inspiration is Levi’s jeans, mainly the different versions of the 501.

The details and features are NOT changed or updated. This means the denim is unsanforized (if it was on the original); the thread is all cotton; the jeans have a red tab, and so on.

Top-shelf pick: Conner’s Sewing Factory

Jake’s favourite in this category is Conner’s Sewing Factory because they make the most accurate 1940s era Levi’s reproductions.

The S-line is all made by one man, founder Yoshiaki Konaka, using only period correct sewing machines, American-made cotton thread, proprietary denim, period correct techniques, such as hand folded seems, and even matching specific flaws on some models.

Prices are around $450-$500 depending on model and exchange rate. For that, they also come in a special box with a laminated certificate of authenticity and the production number.

Budget-friendly alternative: TCB Jeans

TCB’s jeans are sewn in-house but are not as extremely accurate for the 1940s versions. However, TCB’s range extends further into the 1950s and 60s, and now also includes Lee reproductions. They also offer slimmer versions of some models such as the 50s and Catboy jeans.

Prices are usually around $175-$200 for a pair of jeans, which is very reasonable for what you’re getting!

Category #2: Modern Japanese jeans

This category covers a lot of Japanese jeans makers. Probably most of them, actually.

Trendsetting Japanese jeans brands like Studio D’Artisan, Fullcount and The Flat Head are all strongly inspired by original Levi’s jeans from the 40s to the 60s – which were when jeans first came to Japan – but they all add their own touch, or even ‘improve’ the originals.

Top-shelf picks

• Real Japan Blues and The Flat Head
• Tanuki
• Pure Blue Japan

They offer modern, slim fits and high rises with all the major details and proprietary unsanforized denim with a lot of texture and character.

These jeans usually cost around $300-$335 per pair in the west, but can be as low as $230 when bought in or from Japan.

Budget-friendly alternative: Japan Blue

They use proprietary denim, usually sanforized, often with a lot of texture. The jeans will be ‘missing’ certain details such as multiple thread sizes and colours, hidden rivets, and so on.

Prices are around $125-$175 per pair.

Category #3: Modern Western jeans

This is probably the broadest category. It includes both American and European brands that make ‘modern’ raw denim jeans, meaning not repro jeans.

They often use proprietary Japanese denims, mostly sanforized. Most of them don’t have original details like hidden rivets, but they’ve usually developed their own signature design details.

Fits are mostly slim tapered to skinny tapered with low-ish rises and generally slim thighs.

Top-shelf picks

The list of brands in this category is long, but here are some of our favourites and the most popular in this category:

• 3sixteen
• Rogue Territory
• Indigofera
• Tellason

Budget-friendly alternatives

• Gustin
• Brave Star
• CMBD

Category #4: Heavyweight jeans

Denim is classified in weight, which is measured in ounces per square yard. All other fabrics are measured in GSM, which is grammes per square metre.

The average weight of denim is around 14 oz. That means something like 21 oz. denim is around 50% heavier. You make denim heavier by using thicker (coarser) yarn. And/or by weaving it tighter.

In episode #6, we talk in great detail about how denim is made. I’ve also made a series of blog posts about it.

In terms of styling, heavyweight jeans are mostly modern. In fact, true repro jeans could never be that heavy because denim wasn’t this heavy originally!

Top-shelf picks

• Iron Heart
• Samurai

Iron Hearts are made with poly/cotton thread while Samurai use cotton thread. Both brands have a wide variety of fits. Iron Heart mainly use sanforized denim, Samurais are unsanforized.

Some say Iron Heart’s denims are boring and without character. That’s simply not true, in my experience. The 21/23 oz. denim is indeed a little flat, at least at first, and their 21 oz. signature fades notoriously slowly. The 25 oz. denim gets tons of character and slubs.

Budget-friendly alternatives

• Unbranded

• Naked and Famous

Unbranded 21 oz. starts at $126 and Naked and Famous start at around $180 or so.

Category #5: Bespoke jeans

These are jeans that are (more or less) completely custom-made for you.

This means all details of the jeans can be made exactly how you want them, including the fabric, the thread colour, the trim, and of course the fit.

Patterns are usually made for each customer. Like a pair of bespoke shoes.

Top-shelf pick:

• Viapiana Custom Denim (jeans start at $325)
• Paul Kruize
• Companion Denim

Budget-friendly alternative: SoSo Brothers

SoSo Brothers offer semi-custom jeans. You can choose from several fits, multiple fabrics, and certain details such as zip or button fly, thread colour, buttons, patch, and certain other options such as adding suspender buttons or a cinch back.

Price starts at $145 for jeans. Alterations to the fit can be done at an added price of $19 per alteration.

Questions from listeners

Question from Daniel: Are shoetrees in shoes/boots necessary?

Question from Paul: Why do we cuff jeans?

Question from Derrick from Perth in Australia: Denimheads don’t like Nudie? Why? And can Nudie be part of the heritage look?

Question from Peter Gordet: What do we think of the Rogue Territory Chelsea boots?

Questions from Hector Rios: #1: Best places to sell your gear? #2: Which forums are we on?

Question from Carl Murawski: We each have $200 to spend, what do we buy?

Other brands and people we mention

• @bigdudeindenim
• Buzz Rickson’s
• Carmina
• CSF thread on Denim Bro
• Denimio
• Edward Green
• Harris Tweed
• @indigoshrimp
• Momotaro
• Okayama Denim
• Oni
• Ooe Yofukuten
• R.M.Williams
• Rakuten
• Stevenson Overall Co.
• TCB thread on superfuture
• @volvo_sufu
• Warehouse
• Whitesville t-shirts (from Toyo Enterprise)
• @wizardsof32oz

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Apple Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify and SoundCloud.

The post Episode #11: Top-Shelf and Budget-Friendly Jeans in 5 Categories appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Colin aka @c__jonas

Name: Colin

Birth year: 1993

Location: Switzerland

Profession: Medicine student

Colin’s Way Into Instagram and Raw Denim

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Colin: It all started in 2017 when I decided to open an Instagram account for my menswear “hobby.” I’ve always posted fit pics on forums (Bonnegueule and Superfuture) but I wanted to share outfits on a different platform.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

C: I’ve been using Instagram since its beginnings with another private account, sharing my daily bits and bobs. Nothing really serious and more friends and social circle oriented. I like how easy it is to share, discover and connect with other people.

Instagram allows you to connect with a bunch of different people. The simplicity and effortless access also made it easier for me to track my outfits and see my progression month after month. I like to have straightforward access to my denim fades and outfits all in the same place.

I get questions weekly about how I wash my jeans. French people aren’t used to seeing someone using a washing machine and French literature about selvedge is quite rare. I recently have done a couple of ‘how to’ guides on my story to answer these questions.

I don’t have any particular goals with Instagram except to share outfits and to discover new brands, products, and people.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

C: When I’m going to my University classes, I spend a lot of time on Instagram. I would say a couple of hours a day, essentially in public transportation.

But when I’m on holiday, I sometimes don’t open the app at all for a full week! It’s good to be able to disconnect from the internet as it’s a time sinker. Instagram can quickly become unhealthy if you spend too much time on it.

T: How do you take your photos?

C: I take my photos by myself with a camera, a tripod, and a timer. Usually with a Nikon camera that I borrow from my girlfriend, but I also share some stories taken with my iPhone.

T: Which tools do you use?

C: A Nikon D5500 and a tripod. I edit the photos afterwards on my phone with Snapseed. I usually tweak the luminosity up because it’s quite dark where I take the pictures and then upload them on Imgur for forums and on Instagram.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

C: I don’t really have one. I take pictures of outfits when I have time and if I have something to share. Sometimes I can post a picture a day and sometimes none for a week.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

C: I use my garage door as a background because it’s neutral and simple. It’s not in direct sunlight, so the lighting is consistent and the garage door color is a muted neutral green, which works great, in my opinion. I’ve tried taking pictures in the forest near my house, but it’s a hassle to walk 1 kilometer with the camera and tripod just for that photo hahaha!

Colin’s Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

C: Back in high school in 2011, I wore mostly used denim and chinos. I wasn’t really into menswear or nice clothing. I was skating to class and afterwards every day and I didn’t really care about what I was wearing.

I was looking for dark denim but had a hard time finding any in the shops in my town, so I typed ‘dark denim’ on Google and it was my first jump into raw denim and menswear: I had just found the forums Superfuture and Bonnegueule and spent hours reading the discussions.

A couple of weeks later, I bought my first pair of raw denim when I traveled to Paris: an A.P.C. Petit Standard. It was slim, uncomfortable at first, as it needed to stretch and break in. I loved it.

Then, in 2014, I went on a road trip to the USA. I went to Self Edge in San Francisco and bought my first unsanforized denim: a collaboration in-between Imperial and Self Edge called the “SEXI23”.  

After wearing unsanforized denim, I was hooked and couldn’t look back to sanforized denim or non-selvedge denim, for that matter. My search for the perfect dark pair of jeans had brought me into menswear and later to my Japanese clothing addiction.

During the summer of 2017, I went on a trip to Japan. My favorite part was the small city of Kojima in the Okayama prefecture. There you can find a street called Jeans Street dedicated to denim and indigo garments with more than 20 shops.

There is a 3-parts jeans museum and next to it the TCB factory. Hajime Inoue, from TCB, allowed me to visit his factory and showed me the vintage machine he uses to sew jeans. There, I’ve bought the pair I’m wearing at the moment: the TCB ‘50s slim.

You can learn more about my trip and my TCB ‘50s on an article I’ve recently written on the blog of a good friend of mine here.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

C: My favorite feature is obviously the denim; I like it slightly slubby and hairy.

I also really like the hardware, especially the buttons, my favorite being the ones on my Flat Head 3005-A.

A chain-stitched watch pocket producing a “lightning” fade is also something I’ve been searching for recently.

T: How do you wash your denim?

C: I started by wearing my first pair around 6-8 months without any soak or wash. I had no experience in raw denim and all I could read about it back then was that the longer you wait, the better it fades.

I read about the freezer method or ocean wash but I didn’t try these methods. I think they are stupids.

Suggested further reading: Raw denim care myths

For my second pair (Imperial X Self Edge), I didn’t want to go through the “stinky and dirty” pair of jeans again, so I hand-washed it after around 4 months and then every 2 months or so. For my third pair (Stevenson Overall Co.), I tried the washing machine for the first time and never looked back.

I changed the way I wash my jeans since I’ve started my ‘denim adventure.’ I went from never washing to using the washing machine often.

The more you wash (especially with a washing machine), the less contrasty your fades are. I now prefer ‘vintagey’ fades and clean denim. I’ve machine-washed my fourth pair (TCB ‘50s slim) every time it needed, and the results were successful.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

C: It’s hard to say as I love many brands. The favorite denim I’ve worn is from Stevenson Overall Co. (above). I love the subtle slubs and green cast. The single stitching construction with poly-cotton threads and pockets curves are “unique” and refreshing.

This pair, 767-RXX aka Santa Rosa, is the most durable denim I’ve worn so far and benefits a lot from frequent washes. The Stevenson’s cuts are particular and definitely don’t work for everybody, but they suit me well.

Otherwise, I’m really enjoying my orSlow 105 and my Ooe Yofukuten OA02 art the moment.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

C: My favorite fits are the one based on the Levi’s 501 from the ‘60s: medium to high rise, some freedom in the seats and thighs and a subtle taper. Hemmed short, this fit works with many different types of clothing while giving me the freedom of movement for my everyday needs.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

C: I don’t have a lot of accessories, but I’ve been wearing a natural leather belt by Tanner Goods since a trip to the USA I did in 2013. The natural leather has aged so well.

I’ve recently acquired a brown belt from SympaBonnard, a Swiss brand. I can’t wait to see how it evolves.

I love boots and leather shoes though. If we meet, there are high probabilities that I’d be wearing my Oak Street Bootmakers trench boots or Paraboot Michael or Chambord.

Suggested podcast episode: How leather is made and types of leather

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

C: I don’t really wear sneakers anymore except at my job where I wear Common Projects Achilles low. They have become so comfortable and are “dressier” compared to others who wear running shoes. I also have some white high-top Converse made in the Kurume factory in Japan. It’s a classic that never goes out of style.

T: Favorite item that’s not denim or leather?

C: Definitely one of my Visvim jackets, either the Kilgore (above) or the travail coverall in wabash indigo fabric.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

C: I’ve bought the majority of my wardrobe second-hand on the internet: mostly on eBay, Grailed, and Rakuten. The only physical shops I’ve bought expensive stuff were during my trips to the USA, Japan and France.

My all-time favorite shop is VMC in Zurich. They have, in my opinion, the best selection of the brands I love. I also like DeeCee Style in Zurich and Jinji in Paris.

T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?

C: It depends on the month and on my budget. I tend to re-sell everything I don’t wear and re-use the money to buy something else.

It varies in between 50 USD to 300 USD in general. I buy one or two pieces of clothing each month but sell one I don’t wear anymore.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

C: Wear what you want and what you think looks good.

Focus on fit over quality or quantity. The silhouette is the most important part of any outfit for me.

Try larger pants.

Always adjust the length of your pants.

Invest in jackets and shoes. They have the biggest impact on an outfit.

Buy better pieces and get them second-hand. It’s ok to wear already used stuff, it looks better.

Stop that Red Wing boots and Chup socks “cuff-check” nonsense.

Definitely try unsanforized denim if you haven’t. It’s ok to buy one wash if you are afraid of all the shrinking process. Try it and you’ll like it. You might not be able to go back!

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #50: @c__jonas appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Twelfth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

After two episodes about denim, it’s time to talk about boots. In other words, it’s time for Jake to do most of the talking 😉

In this one, we’re joined by YouTuber and product reviewer, Carl Murawski.

Carl has built a successful YouTube channel with +37k followers at the time of recording this episode. He’s done so by sharing honest and well-produced reviews about quality clothes, boots and accessories.

In this episode, you’ll hear Carl’s story and how it all started with a side business he ran as an in-person style consultant for guys in suits.

Throughout the episode we (well, let’s be honest, it’s mainly Jake and Carl talking) discuss the interesting topic of ‘best made’ vs. ‘best marketed’ boots.

Carl is not afraid to tell you his opinion. One of his pet peeves is how some brands get more attention, because of effective marketing and big budgets, than their products actually deserves. Listen to the episode to find out which brands they are.

Eventually, Jake and Carl each list their top 3 favourite boots.

People and companies we mention

• Aaron Marino (YouTuber)
• Ametora book
• Chippewa
• Clinch (C2)
• Clutch Monkey Kickstarter
• Daniel’s NYC
• @denim_and_whiskey
• Drew’s Boots
• Duluth Trading Company
• Fedora Lounge
• Harris Tweed
• Leather Lately
• Mark Alberts
• Mascon leather
• Motor boots
• MYG handmade (C2)
• Nicks boots (C3)
• NYC Denim Days
• Optimo hats
• Red Wing
• Rivet 50 vote (and the original list that I’m on)
• Role Club (C3)
• @stitchdown
• Taft
• Taylor Stitch
• Thursday
• Urban Sheppard
• versanji
• Viberg
• White Kloud (J+C1)
• White’s
• Wild Frontier Goods

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

The post Episode #12: Best Made vs. Made Marketed Boots with Carl Murawski appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with Evan Holahan aka @evanholahan

Name: Evan Holahan

Birth year: 1995

Location: North Carolina, United States

Profession: Marketing Content Creator and Photographer

How Evan Got Started on Instagram

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

Evan: Around seven years ago, I would basically just post photos of my outfits or everyday life. I knew nothing about photography at the time but knew that I just liked to take pictures.

I got into raw denim around the same time that I had made an Instagram account, so naturally, I got more involved with the community through the app. This pushed me in a way to learn more about photography and put more thought into my content.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

E: For a long time, it was just a great way to connect with other creators and to get to know people who were passionate about the same things that you’re passionate about.

Instagram has changed a lot and has a lot of negatives that come with it, but there is still a foundation underneath for finding things that inspire you.

I basically just use it now as a means to show what I’m up to and what kinds of projects I am working on with my photography. It’s also great for keeping in touch with friends across the globe.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

E: Usually about 45 minutes a day. I used to find myself on there for much longer but have tried to limit it so this way I’m not just twiddling my thumbs on the app when I am bored.

T: How do you take your photos?

E: If they are of myself, just a tripod and the Fuji self-remote app. My girlfriend also helps me take them; she loves photography as much as I do so we’re usually on the same wavelength in that sense.

T: Which tools do you use?

E: I am currently shooting with a Fuji X-T100 and a 15mm-45mm variable lens setup. I edit via Lightroom on my Macbook.

I believe the tripod that I am currently using is just a medium-grade Pantan. Nothing too fancy!

I also recently invested in a Campbell Cole O-Tote bag that I use for a camera bag and it’s been a lifesaver for when I’m out shooting street photography.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

E: I used to have a strict editorial flow where I would try to post every day. I try not to do that anymore, as it forces creativity a bit. I mainly just make efforts to shoot photos every day, and post several times a week with projects that I’ve been working on or things that have kept me inspired.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

E: Paris, for sure. My girlfriend lives there, and I usually visit for a few months at a time when I can.

My favorite thing about it is the massive variety in architecture and atmosphere that you can find there. One minute you’re walking by a one 150-year-old apartment building with art deco details that were added onto it one hundred years ago, and then you can walk two blocks over and come across an apartment complex with a minimalist Scandinavian tone to it.

It’s a gold mine when it comes to exploring.

Evan’s Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

E: I got my first pair of selvedge denim about seven years ago.

I grew up in skateboarding culture, so I was always wearing the same pair of jeans for months at a time and skating in them till they were absolutely destroyed.

A friend of mine introduced me to selvedge denim and when he explained to me about how you’re supposed to wear them as much as possible so they mold and fade according to your lifestyle, it just kind of clicked with what I would do with my skate jeans when I was younger, so I was hooked.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

E: Probably the buttons or the leather patch details. I think these are the spaces where brands can really showcase their creative sphere so I always love to see what they do with it to make it personable to them.

T: How do you wash your denim?

E: Usually, once every few months when they start to smell, a forty-five-minute cold soak in the bathtub with some Woolite dark does the trick.

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

E: This is a tough one; I’d have to say Momotaro/Japan Blue. I think the story behind the brand and where they pull their inspiration from is really neat. They also put an immense amount of attention to detail in their products.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

E: I’m kind of in between two right now. I love both the Momotaro narrow tapered fit and then the 3sixteen CT fit. They both have a nice amount of room in the top block which I really like because of how active I am.

The main difference between the two is in the taper from the knee down. My Momotaro 0105 SP’s have a pretty strong taper, which I’m a big fan of just because of how good it looks with boots.

My CT’s offered a more relaxed taper that isn’t quite as strong, so it works well for a classic kind of look to go with my New Balances or Converses, for example.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

E: All of my leather goods come from Mercy Supply. I have both a bi-fold wallet and belt from them. They’re easily my favorite leather goods brand as they make products that truly withstand everyday wear.

For boots, lately, I have been cycling between the Alden Indy Boot, several different pairs of Thursdays, and then the Taylor Stitch Trench Boot (above).

Suggested podcast episode: Best made vs. best marketed boots

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

E: My favorite sneakers in my rotation are the New Balance Made in USA 990s as well as the Converse x Commes des Garcons all-stars. I have also been eyeing some from Brandblack and Salomon but have yet to pick some up.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

E: I think I mentioned it earlier, but probably my Campbell Cole O-Tote. It really is one of my favorite pieces to carry around with me when I’m out taking photos or just exploring a new area.

I also have a few old rings and bracelets that I’ve gotten from old jewellery stores in Paris. I wear them almost every day, so they’ve become a core part of my outfits.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

E: Some of my favorite shops to purchase from are Meadow, Centre Commercial, Royal Cheese, Lone Flag, Okayama Denim, Canoe Club, and Withered Fig.

I always love getting the chance to show support to independent retailers.

T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?

E: I’ll be honest, I don’t really have a budget or anything. I actually purchase items quite infrequently. Some months, I might pick up one or two pieces. Other times, I might even go three to four months without purchasing anything at all. It all kind of depends, I try to only buy something when I am absolutely in love with it or really need it.

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

E: I think, above all, just wear things that really get you excited every time you put them on and make sure that they inspire you.

I pull from so many different sources of inspiration for my style, whether it’s Japanese streetwear, American workwear or French workwear. I just find something that I love and roll with it.

That’s what keeps things original and I think that’s what defines good style.

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #51: @evanholahan appeared first on Denimhunters.

The Thirteenth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

Keeping your boots clean and properly conditioning is not only important because it makes them look good. It’ll also make them last longer. So in this episode, Jake and I talk about boot care.

News of the week

Quite fitting for the topic of this week, Jake shares a blog post about whether one pair of boots can objectively be better than another, which you can read right here.

Related podcast episode: How leather is made and types of leather

Topic of the episode: Boot care

We open the discussion by talking about how often you need to clean your boots.

As Jake argues, ideally, you should wipe your boots clean with a horsehair brush after each wear. In reality, though, neither of us do that, but at least once a week is a good standard to go by.

When your boots get really dirty, you’ll first need to clean off whatever’s on them with a damp rag or towel.

Then we talk about shoe trees, which certainly help keep the boots in their original shape. Even more importantly, shoe trees help remove moisture from the inside of your boots.

That said, neither of us really use shoe trees in our boots because we want them to age ruggedly. Jake also points out that, for instance, he likes when the toe box of his boots collapses a bit.

But for dress boots and dress shoes, shoe trees are a necessity because they should be kept as clean and new as possible since they’re more formal.

Guide to boot cleaning and conditioning

1. First, brush clean with a horsehair brush.
2. Wipe clean with a damp towel if necessary. Let dry after.
3. Condition with leather conditioner. Jake recommends Saphir Renovateur and Smith’s Leather Balm. The Renovateur he applies with a piece of cloth while he uses his fingers to apply the Leather Balm.
4. After the conditioner drys, you can go further by either using a waterproofing product such as Sno-Seal or Obenaufs. However, be aware that these (and Smith’s) will darken the leather.
5. You can also use a coloured or neutral shoe polish after the conditioning product has dried. This works particularly well for smooth-finished leather.

Listener question

At the end of the episode, we answer a question from listener Paul Dutra aka Glowingglass who asks if we take the back pocket stitching into consideration when we’re buying jeans.

People and companies we mention

• Badalassi Carlo
• Conner’s Sewing Factory
• @denim_rambler
• Freewheelers
• Fullcount
• G-Star
• Iron Heart
• Red Wing
• Saphir
• Smith’s Leather Balm
• Venetian shoe cream
• Viberg
• Warehouse
• White Kloud

Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review

You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.

If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.

Featured image from Pigeon Tree Crafting who’s selling Smith’s Leather Balm.

The post Episode #13: How to Clean and Condition Your Boots appeared first on Denimhunters.

Q&A with King-Yu Yiu aka @kingyuyiu

Name: King-Yu Yiu

Birth year: 1989

Location: London

Profession: Associate Creative Director

King-Yu’s Instagram Routines and How It Started

Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?

King: It started five years ago when I started documenting the evolution of my Lee 101Z 23 oz. jeans on a monthly basis, following a strict ‘no wash’ policy, as well as featuring artworks from past collaborations to hopefully inspire others alike.

T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?

K: To share the beauty of faded indigo; as an artist, colours are everything in my work and the sheer uniqueness of natural fading over time is gorgeous. It’s a fantastic visual diary to show your vision amongst other great indigo faders.

T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?

K: The (usual) daily routine would be a quick check-in during my morning coffee, mid-afternoon while enjoying my wife’s delicious lunches, and another brief browse at the end of the day in bed.

Since the nature of my job is always seeking new imageries and inspirational references, luck and timing can sometimes find great little snippets on the newsfeed.

T: How do you take your photos?

K: All photographs are taken by myself.

T: Which tools do you use?

K: A LEICA M10-D.

T: What’s your editorial flow?

K: The main key calendar date is at the end of each month to document overviews on my current Lee 101Z 19 oz. jeans. Rest is ad hoc when a good moment pops up, I’ll just snap it and share it in between.

T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?

K: The majority of my photographs are taken in the studio; I’m very fortunate to have a lovely open top window with great natural lighting capturing the details.

King-Yu’s Denim Style and Preferences

T: How did you get into denim?

K: This would be the first day working at Evisu back in 2007 when the head office was still based in Savile Row.

It was a complete eye-opener to the world of denim and tailoring; the smell of wet indigo from the drizzled morning rains while commuting to developing my first embroidery artwork, they showed me the ropes to becoming a denimhead. All the guys were fantastic; I owe it to that close-knitted friendly team.

T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?

K: One of my favourite parts would have to be the honeycombs – the highs and lows of contrasting indigo shades, the form and definition are always fun to see.

Another part is what’s underneath the rolled cuffs! Unravelling it from time to time, I love the degrade from the original raw denim to what’s been faded – the gradual ‘dip dye’ look effect is stunning to see.

T: How do you wash your denim?

K: NO WASH!

T: What’s your favourite denim brand?

K: Never an easy question. However, in my opinion (bearing in mind the involvement of sentimental values as well), would be Evisu BUT the Japanese mainline where the designs are still authentic to how they were back then.

The story Mark told me a pair were once sold for $400 back in the early 90s compared to $50 by Levi’s – people were fascinated as to how a pair of unheard jeans can have such a value at the time but after knowing their ’13 pairs a day’ production run – that commitment was the true meaning of quality and craftsmanship. They involved elements of humour to their collection too which I could relate to.

T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?

K: Evisu Japan Lot. 2001 “OLD CUTTER FIT” in No.1 Tiger Selvage “Gatagata”, straight jeans with loose legs. A proper workwear silhouette, can’t beat the classics.

T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?

K: Both leather boots and jacket by Carol Christian Poell, a true modern-day avantgarde designer.

T: Which sneakers do you wear?

K: I’m currently sporting my ASICS Gel-Kayano 25 in the shocking orange/black colourway.

T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?

K: This would have to be my Nike hoodie in heavy grey melange sweat. I’ve had this for almost 15 years and still going strong.

The construction is based on an American 30’s “Double V” vintage sweatshirt. It’s aged nicely with gradual wears along the hems, cuffs, kangaroo pocket and elbows with the brushed felpa breaking through.

T: Where do you buy your gear?

K: Mostly through vintage markets, private sellers and suppliers offering rare and well-considered one-off pieces.

I’ve recently visited Leicester during a manufacturing/research trip and stumbled upon a couple of local independent boutiques selling all sorts of products from various eras; never tired of it.

T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?

K: To be honest, I don’t really have a budget for clothing. I rarely treat myself these days as I’m currently saving for a property!

T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?

K: Comfort and enjoying your own look! Don’t force a garment that you don’t feel good wearing, it won’t match your personality.

I like garments with history or a story; finding out the original purpose or particular method of constructions is interesting and makes you truly appreciate what you are wearing.

Ready for More Q&As?

If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.

The post Blue Blooded Instagrammer #52: @kingyuyiu appeared first on Denimhunters.