In this week’s episode, Jake and I are joined by Ben Woodhouse aka @clobbercalm.
I’ve been a guest on Ben’s podcast, the ClobberCast, three times. And, as I’ve argued earlier, his show inspired me to start podcasting myself. So I’m very happy that we got to have Ben on our podcast.
News of the week
As always, we open the show we a quick round of news updates.
For me personally, I’ve finally started wearing my new Wesco boots (which I had to have stretched a bit to make them fit). But they’re awesome!
Referencing something we discussed in episode #11, Stanislav from Denim Head in Prague brings our attention to the trade agreement between EU and Japan. Go shop on Rakuten!
Lastly, we share the news that Godspeed in Melbourne has closed its brick and mortar store. A sad but relevant piece of news for this week’s topic.
Topic of the week: Online vs. physical retail
For the first half hour or so of what’s the longest episode we’ve recorded so far, we get up to speed on what Ben’s been up to since he closed his store in Sheffield, the Clobber Calm Supply Co, earlier this year.
After that, Ben answers the question that Ben Viapiana asked in episode #10 (‘online vs. storefront’). That takes us into a discussion about the pros and cons of buying online stores vs. the brick and mortar experience.
On a side note, I’ve done a couple of video interviews with Ben over the past year. The first one I did, which was actually the very first conversation we ever had, is still my favourite. You can find that here.
If you haven’t listened to it already, I’d also encourage you to check out episode #48 of the ClobberCast, where Ben and his co-host Glen go into more detail about why Ben decided to close the close.
Ben in front of the Supply Co.
Ben’s most recent collaboration with Tricker’s.
Ben’s new office.
Picture by @bootaddict.
Listener question
While we recorded the episode, Jeremy Osztreicher aka @jeremyosz asks what our favourite distinctly British items are.
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Profession: Freelance denim specialist for brands and retail (long-john.nl)
Wouter’s Routines on Instagram
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Wouter: I’m using Instagram as one of the tools to share my passion about denim and denim-related items. I started my online denim magazine in 2011 and years later I started with Instagram to link to my blog, which is my main and most important channel.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
W: I use it because it’s easy to show people the latest updates on my online magazine. But also to stay connected with friends, like-minded people, making new friends and staying up to date with what’s happening in the denim industry. There are a lot of active people and brands on this social channel.
My goal is to show people the latest news within the industry and to inspire them with denim and denim-related items and styles.
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
W: Around 1.5 hours a day.
T: How do you take your photos?
W: I’m taking pictures myself, but I also use a lot of pictures from brands that I receive for writing the articles on my blog. Most of the time, I put the most attractive picture from the article on Instagram (and my other social channels) to attract people to visit my site.
T: Which tools do you use?
W: I use my iPhone, of course, and my Nikon DSLR camera.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
W: No, I don’t plan my updates. I’m more an ad-hoc type of guy. But for my clients, I plan the articles for my online denim magazine as these are most of the time related to a time schedule in their promotion campaign or product launch.
Wouter together with my podcast co-host Jake aka @almostvintagestyle from when Wouter visited LA in the spring of 2019.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
W: I make most pictures on the spot while visiting stores, trade shows, events and so on, and I take a lot of pictures, close-up shots, in my studio where my personal denim archive is also stored.
Wouter’s Denim Style and Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
W: I started my denim career 25 years ago when I got a job at Diesel back in the early 1990s. I used to work in their store in my hometown, Eindhoven.
These were the best days of Diesel – and many other of the Italian brands that started at that time – as they took inspiration from the American brands, but with a different and unique Italian flavour. Something totally new at the time. It was a booming period for brands and retail.
In the video below, Wouter explains his story in detail.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
W: The fading of a pair of raw selvedge jeans. I love to see how jeans become more beautiful with wear, more personal. The best priceless moments are those when the sun shines on your worn jeans and your own personal wear pattern really pops.
T: How do you wash your denim?
W: I don’t wash my jeans in the machine, I rinse them after a year or so by hand. I repeat this every now and then to avoid rips and tears.
W: I really love some of the more recent denim brands, but at the end of the day, I’m a true sucker for Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler, the Big Three of American brands.
W: Regular fit with a bit higher waist, as the Lee Cowboy jeans from the 1940s, for example.
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
W: As I’m also the co-owner of the Butts and Shoulders brand, I’m wearing these a lot, of course. I’ve also been a big fan of Red Wing boots for almost 20 years now.
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
W: I’m only wearing sneakers during the summer, and then I go for the classic ones as All Stars, Vans era, and Jack Purcell.
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
W: Next to denim I love vintage army jackets. The construction and all details that’re made with a reason and function. And I really love the faded camo patterns on old jackets.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
W: I buy a lot of vintage stuff, I love when it has a worn and faded look, but also a lot of new items, of course. I always try to buy them in brick and mortar stores or directly from the brands. I want to support the people that are doing their best to achieve their dreams.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
W: Be yourself, don’t copy, and wear whatever you feel comfortable with.
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
In this episode, Jake and I talk about how we each wash our jeans. This is a topic that really gets me fired up, so prepare to hear me talking a lot in this one 😉
I’m not saying one approach is better than the other. My issue is that denim novices and their grandmothers will be told never to wash their jeans like it’s a universal truth. Because it’s not! Plus you seldom hear about the downsides of never washing or very infrequent washing.
A perfect example of what happens when you never wash raw denim.
Why it matters how often you wash your jeans
You can wash your jeans however you want; weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, bi-monthly, every six months, every year, or never. It’s all up to you!
But the more you wash your jeans, generally, the lower the contrast of the fades will be, and the sooner the indigo will be gone.
The less you wash your jeans, the higher the contrast on the fades will be in general, and the sooner the jeans will need to be repaired.
In the end, I would like everyone who’s giving out denim washing advice to ask what want the receiver of that advice wants from his/her jeans:
High contrast fades but less durable?
Or less contrast but more durable?
And before we get to the methods, let’s just clarify that not washing your jeans – or at least postponing washing – to get fades only makes sense for raw (unwashed) denim!
The bathtub / hand-washing method
Turn the jeans inside out.
Fill the sink/bathtub up with room temperature water.
Add Woolite Dark detergent (or similar) and white vintage and mix in well.
Place the jeans in the water and agitate them for a minute or so.
Let them soak for an hour, agitating every once in a while.
Drain the water with the detergent in it and wash off jeans with clean water.
Let jeans dry in the sink/tub for a while and then hang dry.
Personally, I’ve experimented with speeding up the drying process by running a spin-only cycle in the washing machine. This also gives a bit of that ‘one-wash’ look that I really like.
The machine-washing method
Turn the jeans inside out.
Add around 1 spoonful of mild non-bleach liquid detergent and white vinegar.
Wash in a washing machine at maximum 40°C (100°F) and a spin cycle of no more than 900 RPMs.
Dry the jeans outside, in the shower or on a drying rack.
Jake’s approach to washing jeans
Jake washes his jeans very infrequently, and he almost always does it by hand.
First of all, he likes his jeans to stay dark, not because he wants high contrast fades. Secondly, he doesn’t wear jeans nearly as much as most denimheads do. He has a large collection of chinos, trousers, and non-indigo jeans that he wears quite often.
My approach to washing jeans
I soak my jeans before I start wearing them. Even sanforized ones. I follow the hand-washing method below, only omitting the detergent and agitation. After that, I’ll usually machine-wash them ever 3 months or so.
I started soaking my jeans before I wear them years ago when I discovered that it helps make my jeans last longer. Below is a video I’ve made about my approach.
Unsanforized vs. sanforized jeans
The reason I soak sanforized jeans before I start wearing them is to get most of the starch out, which is left from the production of the denim. But it’s not as necessary as it is with unsanforized jeans.
So while I would consider a pre-wear soak optional for sanforized jeans, I think you more or less have to soak unsanforized jeans. The only exception would be if you never ever plan to wash them.
Jake hot soaks his unsanforized jeans for over an hour at least twice to shrink them down. Sometimes, he’ll even machine wash them (without detergent) to make sure all of the shrinkage is taken out.
Listener questions
At the end of the episode, Jake and I also answer two questions from listener Stephen Snider aka @denim_rambler.
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Chris: My journey using Instagram is a pretty personal one for me.
Basically, I experienced a loss that completely changed my life. I had to put my life on hold for a few years in order to seek therapy and recover. During that time, I was spending most of my day alone. I found myself with a lot of extra time, so I decided to take up a hobby to direct my energy in a healthy and productive way.
I started using Instagram in 2015 because I’d always been interested in fashion and I found that dedicating myself to a daily outfit diary was an easy thing to do every day. It was therapeutic for me.
At that time, I felt like I wasn’t ready to enter the world around me, but Instagram allowed me to feel like I was still connected to the rest of the world. I was excited to connect with a bunch of really friendly and creative people, and that inspired me to really explore who I am and how I want to present myself. That, and a newfound interest in photography, really helped me in my recovery.
I’m happy to say that I’m in a much better place nowadays, and I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that it’s partly due to the really amazing and inspiring folks I’ve met through Instagram.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
C: I started using Instagram because it was the medium that best allows me to present the content I want to show people.
For all of its problems, I still think Instagram is the best medium to connect with people based on photo content.
As far as goals, I don’t have any, really! I’ll keep doing it as long as it continues to be fun for me. I’m just really stoked that people care enough to follow me and tell me they dig what I’m doing.
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
C: Ha! That’s a good question. I check it every time I get a chance, so I’d say less than an hour a day. I used to have a bad habit of just posting photos and closing the app and forgetting about it for half the day.
One cool thing about Instagram’s algorithm is that it kind of forces me to engage with people in order to spread my post to a wider audience. I think a gentle reminder to be social is good for me. As a result, I use Instagram more than I used to these days.
T: How do you take your photos?
C: I set up my DSLR on a tripod most days. I use a remote to take a picture, but sometimes I convince my girlfriend to help me.
T: Which tools do you use?
C: I use a Nikon d3400 camera with a 35mm Nikkor lens. From there, I edit my photos using Lightroom.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
C: It’s funny because I had a flow going until just recently!
I would post two full outfits and then a third shot for outfit grids or detail shots of my shoes. I stuck with that for a pretty long time, but I started to feel limited by it.
Now I just kind of post whatever. I wake up early most days, so I usually post in the mornings. I’m all about routine, so you can expect a post from me at 9 in the morning (EST/EDT) like clockwork.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
C: I’m fortunate to have a really photogenic backyard! It’s got a big garden and a lot of brick walls to use as backdrops. It’s also really easy for me to step outside and take a picture while I let my dog run around in the mornings.
I go to other locations occasionally, but that always takes more planning so it’s rare that I have the chance to explore. The city of Richmond is chock full of inspiring backdrops, so I hope to get out more in the future.
Chris’ Style and Denim Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
C: This has a lot to do with my recovery as well. At the time, I was obsessed with change. My life was changing so drastically that I loved the idea of wearing a pair of jeans that could document that moment in my life.
I was craving tangible proof that I was developing in my recovery process, and a pair of jeans was exactly the canvas I needed to express that need.
I was a lot like my fading jeans. Not broken, just different from when I first put them on.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
C: The cuffs! There’s nothing cooler to me than a pair of chunky cuffed jeans and some sneakers.
T: How do you wash your denim?
C: I just throw them in the washer in some cold water and hang dry them. I don’t think about it too hard.
T: What’s your favourite denim brand?
C: 3sixteen has a special place in my heart. I hope they do more things with their Classic Straight fit, because those are my favorite jeans by far.
A close runner up is a brand I haven’t actually had a chance to try: orSlow. Their attention to detail and the fabrics they use in their pants is unmatched.
T: What’sg your favourite fit? And why?
C: I’m all about straight fits! I’ve tried slim and tapered fits in the past, and they just aren’t as comfortable. I’ve been into slightly oversized fits lately, so for me, the less taper the better!
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
C: I’m in the process right now of thinning out my boot collection! I think by the start of the fall season this year I’ll be down to one or two pairs.
I love my Alden Indy’s and my Viberg Scout boots the best with my jeans.
Besides that, my everyday carry includes my Apolis key clip and a natural leather Orion Leather Company belt that I’ve had for years and years.
I really love moccasins, so if I’m not wearing sneakers, I’m usually wearing my Quoddy bluchers.
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
C: I love big chunky runners! The New Balance 990 series is my favorite, and I have several pairs in a few different colors.
I just picked up a pair of Stepney Worker’s Club canvas sneakers that I love a lot for this coming summer.
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
C: My hat! I have a few that I rotate and wear when I don’t feel like combing my hair. I have several from Corridor that fit my head really well.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
C: The internet mostly, and secondhand from eBay or Grailed if I can.
There’s also an awesome local shop in Richmond called Jackson and James, they stock a lot of great brands and Mike the owner is an incredibly nice guy!
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
C: Haha, I don’t want to think about how much I spend on clothes. I don’t really lay out a monthly schedule, although I probably should.
If I like something and it makes sense financially, I’ll go through a process of deciding how much I actually want it before I eventually go for it.
If I want something new, I try to sell something I don’t use or like anymore to help offset the cost and make room in my closet.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
C: I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that it doesn’t matter how expensive or exclusive your clothes are. If you don’t feel comfortable wearing them, then what’s the point?
I’m all about experimenting, so disregard what people tell you about how clothes should fit and figure that out for yourself!
Also, don’t feel like you have to limit yourself to one style or look! I like to take elements from a bunch of different styles that I think compliment each other well. Conforming to one style can get very boring very quickly, so don’t be scared to switch it up!
Fashion is supposed to be fun, so have fun with it!
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
In this episode, Jake and I are joined by Bryan Shettig from The Rife Stuff to talk about how he built his brand.
You’ll learn how Bryan got into denim and heritage style, how he ended up living in Taiwan, and how he gets his clothes made in Japan with the help of none other than John Lofgren.
News of the week
Before we get into the interview, Jake has a couple of pieces of news to share.
First of all, Conner’s Sewing Factory is closing down production of the S-series. For now, at least.
Secondly, we talk about a thread on reddit about our podcast. Generally, the crowd on reddit isn’t overly positive, but I guess that was expected 🤷🏼♂️
At the end of the episode, we answer a question about why unsanforized denim gets heavier after wash, which listeners Robert Tudisco and Paul ‘Glowingglass’ both asked.
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Evan: I started posting pictures of my Levi’s 511s on my personal Instagram page back in 2015. When I bought my first pair of Iron Hearts, I decided to dedicate a whole Instagram account to my denim obsession.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
E: I found that Instagram is a powerful way to connect like-minded folks from across the world when I started my Vintage Clothing Instagram page back in 2013.
I figured the denim world was just as active as the vintage world. So I learned a bunch of hashtags and started posting pictures.
I live in a small town in Ohio, so finding like-minded people to talk about denim is a rarity. My goal is to be able to share and tell stories with people like me.
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
E: I have four Instagram pages. So I’m on Instagram quite a bit.
Slubs on Evan’s 17oz-011 Pure Blue Japans.
T: How do you take your photos?
E: I typically take photos by myself. Sometimes I convince my girlfriend, Anya, to take pictures of me.
T: Which tools do you use?
E: I use my iPhone. When I take photos of myself, I will use a tripod and the self-timer. I use Snapseed to edit, but I don’t typically like to do much editing to my photos.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
E: I try to post an update on my jeans (that I’m currently wearing) about once a month. Mostly all of my photos are taken when I have a spare minute, and when I’m not wearing my jeans! Other times I will have my girlfriend take photos of me when we are out thrifting or playing gigs.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
E: I have a great cement pad right outside of my house that I take photos on. I also like to hang my jeans on my windowsill and take photos in the soft morning light. Both of those locations are featured on my Instagram a lot.
Slubs on the 17oz-011 jeans after 300 days of wear.
Evan’s Denim Style and Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
E: When I was about 16 years old, I wanted jeans that would hold up during my inline skating days and wouldn’t look dirty all the time. I bought a couple pairs of Rustler work jeans. I remember wearing the hell out of those jeans. They had big holes in the knees and the back pockets. I loved it!
I always loved the raw denim look but never really knew anything about it. I would always wash my jeans after every wear. I had no idea how to care for them or how to get cool fades.
Fast forward to about 2015, and I purchased my first pair of selvedge denim jeans. Levi’s released their 511 cut in raw selvedge denim and the rest is history. That’s when I first started caring for my jeans and learning about the art of denim.
E: THE FADE! I’m so obsessed with that process. The loss of indigo and the story it tells. I love the authenticity that is a well-worn pair of jeans. There’s no hiding your story.
T: How do you wash your denim?
E: I usually wash them by hand with Woolite. I will throw them in the washing machine on a gentle cycle if they are really raunchy. I always let them drip dry.
E: A slim cut, medium-ish rise and a tight taper. I love that fit because it fits me best! I have skinny legs and a slim build. If it isn’t a skinny fit, it looks way too baggy on me. I love the Iron Heart 555 and 777 fits in particular.
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
E: I have a pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers. I have been wearing them since 2014. And I absolutely love them. I’m almost ready for a resole. Also, I’ve been eyeing a new wallet. That will be a future purchase for sure.
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
E: I like to keep it simple with sneakers. I’m a big fan of gum sole sneakers. I’ve been wearing them since I was 13. I’m currently wearing the Nike SB Hyperfeel because I like to skateboard sometimes.
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
E: A perfectly beat-up vintage t-shirt. Vintage is my first love and will always be a part of my style. I’ve been wearing some of the same vintage clothes since I was in high school.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
E: I buy online. Denimio is pretty awesome. I live about 1.5 hours away from any denim store, so I’ve learned to be specific about measurements and fit.
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
E: When I make a few extra bucks on a vintage piece, I will splurge and buy a new pair of jeans. That’s sort of my rule of thumb. I’m mostly a one-pair-of-jeans-at-a-time guy. I will wear a pair until I need to repair them or retire them and then move on to the next pair.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
E: Feel comfortable in what you wear and keep it simple. A great pair of jeans and an old t-shirt will go a long way.
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
This week on the podcast, Jake and I are doing a special podcast version of AMA (ask me everything) where answering listener questions. Stay tuned for the longest episodes we’ve put out so far 😅
News of the week
Indigoproof introduced a VIP list
Indigo Proof has created a VIP list to cut down the waiting time for repairs.
The email reads: “Repairs have been filled for almost an entire year, and I’m SO happy to be able to tell you that the year-long waitlist is now a thing of the past! I’m rolling out a totally NEW way of accepting repair work”.
As far as I understand, Rain has closed her other email list and will only be sending out emails to those who sign up for her new list. So be sure to join it if you want to stay updated.
Repair booking opens on today. Here’s the sign-up link.
Okayama Denim in the Japan Times
Merv Sethi of Okayama Denim featured with a full-page spread in Japan’s national newspaper, the Japan Times! You can read it here.
Topic of the week: Ask us anything
Below are all the questions we got. Listen to the episode to hear our answers.
“Can never get that sanforized/unsanforized thing. When to size up or down?”
My answer: Sizing highly depends on the brand. If you can’t try on the jeans, at least get the measurements.
But you’re right that whether the denim is sanforized or not certainly influences how the jeans will fit after you wash the jeans.
Unwashed, unsanforized denim shrinks around 10%. That’s around a size in the waist. Maybe more. However, it will stretch out a little again after a couple of wears. In the length, 10% will equal a couple of inches, so be sure to shrink them down before you have them hemmed.
“How do you know when Dainite soles are ready to be resoled?”
Giacomo
“What do we think (and know) about $50 jeans from brands like H&M, Uniqlo, GAP, etc.?”
My answer: I don’t have any hands-on experience with either of the brands, but my choice would be Uniqlo.
Objectively, jeans produced by vertical retail brands like the ones mentioned can be qualitywise on par with mid-level brands that coat up to twice as much. They’ll be made in a similar way, with similar fabrics and attention to details. It’s all a matter of margins, really!
Brands like the ones we mentioned on episode #11 or more interesting in my perspective. But you cannot compare them with Uniqlo jeans.
“What are the alternatives to the Viberg service boot on the 2030 last. Since the quality control of Viberg is not at par with something at that price range. What other companies make something similar on that sleek last?”
“What clothing pieces do you wear in the rain that keeps the vintage/rugged/workwear look?”
Paul “Glowingglass” Dutra
“I’m finding better denim companies only offer one length inseam. I understand the economy of doing so, but it seems that hemming or cuffing more than 6” would throw off the geometry/taper of how the jeans are intended to fit (ie, my knees are now where the thigh should be).
That may be a drastic example, but you get my point. So is there a better denim company that offers a shorter inseam (30” rather than 36”) or offers complimentary hem/taper that I am not aware of?”
My answer: I might be wrong, but I don’t think the Japanese brands that sell only L36 make them to fit taller guys.
“Is sea wash considered cheating/quick way for fades?”
My answer: I don’t think it‘s cheating, it‘s just a way of washing that I wouldn’t recommend. At least you’d most likely have to do a machine wash after the ocean wash, because it’ll make your jeans smell.Whether it speeds up the fading process, I would most certainly say no.
Q1: “Do you think there’s a place for more swapping or trading in the heritage menswear world?”
Q2: “Do you talk about denim/heritage style with your parents?”
Q3: “Thoughts on ocean washing? I think it’s a load of crap.”
Q4: “What do you think of dudes who sleep in the denim for ‘the fadeZzzz’”?
Q5: “Why doesn’t Jake move somewhere where he can wear jackets all year round?”
Q6: “Thomas, how will you handle kids being embarrassed by your double denim when you roll up to pick them up from parties when they’re teens?”
Q7: “What would it take for Jake to wear shorts in public?”
Q8: “Why won’t the ‘never wash your denims omg NEVER’ myth die?”
Sigve Tømta Sletten
“I wanted to ask Jake what he thinks about the Indonesian shoe brands like Santulum, Onderhoud and Sagara? How do they offer handwelted shoes at such a low price?”
“What’s been the biggest surprise about doing the podcast for you both?”
Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Profession: Company controller for a local property management firm
Instagram questions
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Evan: I was using a separate Instagram account and following a number of other interests likes sports and music combined with clothes. It got to be a little unorganized so I decided to make this account to compartmentalize my clothing interests.
I was just kind of a lurker for a while. Then I thought I’d start contributing a bit to the community. From there, it turned into a fun blog of sorts where I could track my own style evolution.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
E: In terms of social media, in my opinion, it is the most generally positive platform to use. The heritage community is very positive and close-knit, and it makes keeping track of what your favorite brands are doing very easy.
Following a lot of more knowledgeable users also makes discovering new brands less of a chore.
In terms of goals, I would say I just want to continue to have fun with it, learn from those more experienced than me, and contribute/advise when I can. I definitely never plan to be Instagram famous.
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
E: Maybe 30-60 minutes a day. A fair amount is contributing to any discussion groups I am a part of. Of course, I can tend to get sucked down the rabbit hole while sitting in bed at night and end up adding another 30 minutes to the tally.
T: How do you take your photos?
E: Always by myself with an iPhone. In general, I will just set the phone on a railing or ledge somewhere and set the phone timer.
@Illcutz mentioned using his wallet as a sort of stand in his interview and I have employed that method before as well.
T: Which tools do you use?
E: Just the iPhone with a timer. I will adjust the photo a bit using the phone’s editing software but, in general, it’s a quick and very amateur process.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
E: I mostly just take them when I’m headed to work in the morning or at lunch. Since I treat my account as a sort of daily blog, I do my best to post a photo each day. I actually post less on the weekends than I do during the work week as I’m busy with the family most of the time.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
E: There’s a bridge I’m a fan of near my office that I use most often at the moment. I prefer outdoors where the light is good. I’m still on the hunt for a good brick wall that is regularly accessible.
Evan’s Denim Style and How It All Began
T: How did you get into denim?
E: For as long as I can remember, I have cared about what I wore. That didn’t necessarily mean denim but I have been into clothes since I was probably 10 or 12.
Toward the end of my time in college, I started to get really interested in ‘nice’ jeans (at the time that meant over $100). It started as a curiosity combined with my opinion that you get what you pay for. I wanted to know what made a pair of jeans cost $150+.
I bought a pair of Nudie Slim Jims (non-selvedge). Compared to what I was wearing, there was a tangible difference in both material quality and construction. From there, I started researching and really dove into the culture.
My first pair of selvedge denim jeans was from a company called Gilded Age that I bought when I was 23. Almost 10 years later I still have them, and they have seen at least a thousand wears and multiple repairs.
I then went through kind of a ravenous period where I just wanted to experience as many brands as possible. Now, after about 10 years of being a part of this denim world we all love, I have become much more selective and hyper-critical of the denim I buy.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
E: That’s tough. I think it depends on the jeans. Sometimes it’s the coin pocket, sometimes the arcs, sometimes the patch design.
Outside of cut, the feature of a jean that can make or break whether I buy would be the back pocket shape. An arc I don’t like can be removed but if the size or shape of a back pocket is wrong to me, the jeans aren’t worth buying.
T: How do you wash your denim?
E: Always at room temperature or warm soak in a bathtub. Depending on how dirty the jeans are, I will hand agitate. Typically, I just use soap like Dr. Bronner’s.
If I want to really try and shrink a pair of denim, I will do a hot bath with a kettle of boiling water; let stand for 20-30 minutes, and repeat the soak with fresh hot and boiling water for another 20-30 minutes.
I’ve never owned a quality washing machine and a lower quality machine can totally ruin the work you’ve put into denim. It only took one time for me to swear off washing machines.
T: What’s your favourite denim brand?
E: Very tough to pick just one. The Strike Gold makes probably my favorite denim fabric (the SEXSG24). Iron Heart makes an unbelievably well-cut and cleanly crafted pair of jeans. Roy Slaper also makes a beautiful pair of jeans.
I have a custom pair of Companion Denim that over the past three years has been given by far the most love in my rotation (I’m rotating maybe 6-7 pairs at the moment). I worked with Iu (owner of Companion) personally on the pair and we covered literally every detail together. They’re my all-time favorite pair of jeans, so I suppose you could say Companion is my favorite denim brand.
T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?
E: I prefer a slim top block with a slight taper from knee to hem.
A few brand-specific cuts I like a lot are the IH-666, Pure Blue Japan‘s Slim and Relaxed Tapered, and the Kapital Monkey Cisco.
Lately, I’ve enjoyed a little more classic cut as well in the Mister Freedom Lot 64 and Roy Peanut Pants cut.
Wesco x Division Road boots.
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
At the moment, the one thing missing from my closet is a leather jacket. I’ve lusted over a Himel or Real McCoy’s jacket for years and someday hope to add at least one jacket from each of those makers. My grail jacket is probably the Buco J-24.
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
E: I rarely wear sneakers, but I do have one pair of Shoes Like Pottery in white that I will wear occasionally but in general I’m a year-round boot wearer.
Mister Freedom N-1
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
E: I have a few jackets I love. My Mister Freedom N-1 and my Mister Freedom Mulholland Master in indigo. Both are absolute beauties and each will be worn for many years to come.
I recently came across a Buzz Rickson’s Colvinex B-15 that I’m in the honeymoon phase with at the moment and have worn as much as possible with the weather warming up here in Seattle.
However, at the end of the day, there is one item I will go to bat for over any other maker’s: the Iron Heart ultra heavy flannel (some of them below).
The cut of both the western and work versions combined with the weight and feel of the fabric and the meticulous construction make it the greatest flannel on earth. I own around ten of them and plan on adding more to the collection.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
E: I mostly buy online. Whenever possible I like to buy directly from the brand/maker but a few stores like Self Edge, Standard & Strange, and Rivet & Hide are curating a really awesome selection of brands, so I also order through them among others.
In terms of local shops, Blue Owl Workshop is the juggernaut of Seattle denim. They have an incredibly knowledgeable staff with literally hundreds of different denims and cuts.
A newer shop, Division Road, is probably my overall favorite locally. They have easily the best boot selection in town and have a strongly growing selection of brands. They brought Iron Heart to Seattle and anyone carrying Iron Heart ultra-heavy flannels has a special place in my heart.
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
E: These days I don’t buy things very often as I’ve been able to build up a rather large closet over the past five or so years. I would say I allocate $200 a month, but that may mean one thing that costs more than $200 every few months or so.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
E: I will play with my style a bit every now and then and wear an outfit that is very repro compared to other days.
But, in general, I’m easy to copy: Iron Heart flannel, slim tapered jeans, brown boots and you’ll probably be my twin 80% of the time.
Sizing is definitely a matter of preference but I typically err on the side under vs. oversized. I’d rather have my sleeves a pinch too short than a pinch too long.
The most important thing is that you’re happy with the fit and how the clothes you buy look. Even if someone says the fit is wrong, if you like how it fits and looks, then you’re doing it right.
For me, style is all about developing and playing with a uniform you feel good in and ignoring anyone who says otherwise.
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It was through Instagram that Greg and I first got in touch about three years ago. Since then, I’ve done a review of the Kojima Genes x SF collab jeans that Greg put out last years (link here), and he’s been featured on the blog as Blue Blooded Instagrammer #38. On top of that, both Greg and Jake are part of the LADenimHangs crew. So we’re all buddies ✌🏻
Throughout this interview slash discussion episode, Greg shares his thoughts on blogging, being an influencer (whether that’s something you intentionally strive to be or not), and why there’s more to life than Instagram.
News of the week
We begin the episode with what Greg calls ‘the Denimhunters news flash’⚡😄
Premiering on July 26 on YouTube, the NYC-based media production company, Convicts, have made a documentary travel series that examines the past, present and future of blue jeans.
The series is called Common Thread and the host is Scott Morrison, founder of 3×1. We follow Scott who travels in search of authenticity and sustainability in the rapidly changing world of denim.
In the first episode, Scott goes to Italy where he visits Diesel and my good friends and Candiani Denim and Tonello.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
J: I started using Instagram a few years ago when a friend suggested I should share my Levi’s collection. At that time, I’d never heard of it before. In the beginning, I was really pushing myself to post on a daily base, but I’m glad that faded away.
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
J: I spend more time looking at people’s pictures than I do taking my own.
T: How do you take your photos?
J: Just an iPhone 😃 Sometimes, when I know me and my girlfriend are going somewhere nice, I tend to dress up a bit extra to snap an Insta shot.
T: Which tools do you use?
J: iPhone 8 plus
T: What’s your editorial flow?
J: I don’t plan anything, but I do tend to have periods in which a do a lot of the same. For instance, I’ve been using my kitchen floor instead of the wooden floor in the living room.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
J: Outside near the river. It’s called ‘the Waal’ and it stretches from my home town to Germany. Great WW2 battles were fought along this river.
Jerry’s Denim Style and Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
J: When I started working for Levi’s and discovered LVC and true vintage items.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
J: Back pockets for sure!
T: How do you wash your denim?
J: I try not to wash them, so I switch a lot between jeans so that the other pairs have time to take a breath.
J: Sukajan jacket from Japan. It’s a satin bomber.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
J: Mostly online. I try to buy secondhand. Good for our planet and your wallet 😉
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
J: I have an arrangement with my girlfriend that I can buy anything I like. But, I have to balance it out by selling pieces of my own.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
J: Don’t buy as much as I once did. I look at clothing and think “damn, I’m only going to wear that jacket for now.” I wish I could, but I have so many jackets this feeling comes back every day. I try the sell a lot to invest in watches. At one point, I’ll get there.
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In the news section of last week’s episode #18 with @denimhound, I told you about a documentary series, where Scott Morrison from 3×1 travels around the world searching for the roots of denim.
This week on the show, we are joined by Scott to talk about how his story lead him to create the series, and what he learned from it.
Scott’s been part of the denim business since the late 90s. He’s founded the brands Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, in 1999 and 2004, respectively.
But it was his third and current brand, 3×1, that really put him on the global denim map. Famously known for its in-store glass-encased jeans atelier, located in the heart of Soho in New York City, 3×1 makes high-end luxury jeans.
It’s not a heritage brand. It’s not trying to be. The styling is contemporary and minimalistic. And the ready-to-wear collection is mostly made from stretch (selvedge) denim and includes several pre-washed jeans.
But make no mistake, 3×1 is a denim brand through and through. The store has the world’s biggest selection of different denims on stock that you can choose from for the bespoke jeans they offer.
Scott Morrison and Alberto Candiani at Candiani Denim in Italy.
Scott Morrison and Alice Tonello.
Scott Morrison and Stefano Rosso of Diesel.
Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Profession: Self-employed furniture designer and maker, carpenter (currently doing a whole lot of everything but carpentry), builder, hoping to make it in the world of property developing, a novice mechanic, and a professional fixer of all toys my son breaks. According to my son, “my daddy can fix anything.”
Al’s Instagram and Photo Routines
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Al: I’m actually quite new to Instagram and I was kind of nudged by friends because they’re on it. To be honest, I didn’t spend much time on social media but I’d come to realise, with Instagram, it’s a simple way to connect with close friends and family with what’s going on.
So I started a personal feed, @manilagorilla28, in mid-2017, which is basically to show a little about me, my work projects, my boys (my son and my dog), our fun projects and mini-adventures.
I’m a single dad raising these two absolute dudes, so it’s a nice way to document what we get up to. Then, maybe down the line, when he’s older, we can look back at these good ol’ times.
Part of the shots I posted was on Red Wing boots and denim, now this opened up a whole new world that I for one was not aware of. The boots and denim community is so vast, full of cool like-minded people that share the same or similar interests. I knew from then on, a newbie to the Instagram game, I wanted to be a part of it, so a specific @wings_n_work feed got started in September 2017.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
A: It was basically just for fun, and it still is. No real major goals, show them your shots and see how it goes. Oh, and of course meet lots of good people.
Personally, I like the way I can try to tell a story through a series of shots. But it’s not always easy to capture everything, so it becomes a challenge. And in most cases, challenges are good, but it’s hit or miss with me most of the time!
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
A: In the beginning, I was hooked! But I soon realised how little work I was actually getting done. So I try to keep it a moderate 8 hours a day. Haha, nah, just kiddin’! Around a couple of hours, if I’m editing shots, and much less, sometimes none, if I’m not posting. I’m probably fixing something.
T: How do you take your photos?
A: I’d say I took 98% of my shots myself and the rest by whoever’s nearby with instructions on how I want to frame it. Would you believe even my 4-year-old took some of those shots!?
T: Which tools do you use?
A: I started with just my phone. The quality is pretty good, so I wanted to see how far I could get with strictly phones shots.
Plus, there’s a video function where I could film what I’m doing whether it be work or on the move and the film takes a series of still shots throughout. Then, I just pick and choose the best one. Awesome!
Soon. I started playing with my Canon DSLR on regular and mini tripods. The quality is much better and the remote helps too. So now I use both.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
A: There’s a noticeable pattern to the shots I post. Both horizontally and vertically. I’ll let you figure that out.
Looking at how an Instagram page is laid out, I thought it’d be cool to do it this way and get the most of what I’m trying to show. Series of 3 shots and boot rotation. I really just try to capture what I’m doing at the time – it can be disruptive for work sometimes that’s why some shots are before or after the work is done.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
A: I enjoy doing my work shots so wherever I’m working, I guess, but finding new spots here there and everywhere is always fun.
Al’s Denim and Boot Style
T: How did you get into denim?
A: I’ve always worn denim as far as I can remember. I even did the pin roll as far back as 15 or so years ago, haha! I actually worked in retail in my early 20s, part-time assistant manager at a popular High Street denim brand. My manager, who I actually got on with (most were assholes), he educated me in the world of raw selvedge denim.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
A: I’m a sucker for small details inside and out. When I see it, it’s like “ah nice!” hehe. And of course how denim evolves.
T: How do you wash your denim?
A: With my older pairs, they get thrown in the wash only when they absolutely need to. My newer pairs aren’t washed at all yet. I know, eeerw! But they’ll get dunked for a soak when it’s time.
T: What’s your favourite denim brand?
A: Iron Heart for durability. Edwin for fit and comfort. Momotaro for style. I’m yet to explore other brands, so we’ll see how it goes.
T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?
A: Slim tapered, because I like it, haha!
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
A: I was a sneaker freak back in the day (I still am a little) and had a healthy collection of sneakers. I had some old school Nike running shoes but mainly Chucks and Vans. I sold loads to buy my first pair of Red Wings Iron Rangers, then sold even more to get the 875s. Then went from there.
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
A: I’m a sucker for simple T-shirts; white tees in general. I also have a thing for hats – baseball and trucker caps, flat caps and beanies. I wear a hat almost every day, but you’ll hardly see that because my shots end up with my head cut off.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
A: Hard to find time to do proper shopping nowadays, so it’s mostly online. But if something needs to be tried on for fit, then I’ll try to make an effort to get out there.
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
A: No real budget really, try to only buy what I need.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
A: Firstly, I’m very humbled if you follow my feed, so thank you all so much! I honestly didn’t think many would. I’m no fashionista by any means, just a dude showing what I wear on the daily and for work. If you dig it, cool!
Adopt it and make it your own, add a twist of yourself into it..that way you’ll stand out. Peace!
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
In this episode, Jake and I are (once again) joined by boot reviewer, Carl Murawski, who also joined us for episode #12, where we heard Carl’s story.
This time, we’re talking about boots, and we go through seven benefits of wearing them, which are:
Boots …
are comfortable all-day
keep you warm
are way more style and functional options (when you exclude sneakers)
make you look more grown-up
… because girls love it!
can make you taller
are more durable
Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Alex: I think it was just a natural transition from using Facebook and being a part of the “Raw Denim” group. I had a bunch of denim related-pics and I wanted to share them all in one place so, Instagram seemed like the most logical choice.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
A: After creating the @kill_your_jeans account, I basically went through and looked at tons of different denim/leather accounts and followed a number of brand pages and other personal denim accounts.
I realized how much larger the denim community was through Instagram than Facebook and I really liked being able to talk to so many different people about their experiences with different brands, fits, material, and techniques.
I guess my main goal with Instagram is to meet like-minded people from around the world; to have conversations about and learn more about this lifestyle that revolves around denim, leather and silver and the quality craftsmanship it takes to makes products that endure time. And, of course, the joy of watching everyone’s denim evolution!
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
A: My girlfriend would say way too much, and she’s probably right. I’m not alone here.
T: How do you take your photos?
A: I usually just snap pics by myself and sometimes my girlfriend will take a few shots, but only after she makes fun of me first. She’s really great at it though, so it’s all good.
T: Which tools do you use?
A: The only tool I have is a little gorilla tripod thing that holds my iPhone X. It’s got a remote, which helps a lot.
At first, it was always just set the timer on the phone and run back and forth trying to get a shot. I can’t tell you how many weird looks I’ve gotten from people while doing this.
T: What’s your editorial flow?
A: No planning, no calendar, I guess I’ll try to post if it’s ‘Fade Friday or ‘Selvedge Sunday’ or if I notice the fades are popping that day, lol. Other than that, no real rhythm or reason. I don’t ever want it to feel like a chore.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
A: I think it depends on the day, but I really enjoy shooting in the mountains. There’s something about denim and leather and the outdoors that just feels right.
I don’t have any cool urban places to shoot close by so I find myself wandering around outside appreciating nature.
If you’re into nature shots, you need to follow my dude @denim_rambler. He recently moved his entire family from Kentucky or somewhere like that to Alaska!!?? I don’t know anyone else posting pics from the inside of a Glacial Cave, it’s incredible!
Alex’s Denim Style and Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
A: I have no idea!!? Haha!
I think I bought a pair of generic whatever jeans a few years ago and noticed an outseam detail I hadn’t seen before. It made me curious and I googled different types of denim, discovered the term ‘selvedge,’ and it sent me down the rabbit hole, so to speak.
I immediately gravitated towards Japanese denim but wasn’t about to drop $300 on a pair of jeans! I think my first selvedge denim purchase was a pair of Naked & Famous, and after buying and selling a few pairs, trying to find a good fit, I picked up a pair of Elephant 4s. I knew I was into heavyweight denim and I really liked double indigo.
After that, I started figuring out what cuts and materials worked for me. I gradually started buying more expensive denim. It was a slow and frustrating process, but I bought and sold literally dozens of different brands and styles and weights, from Brave Star, 3sixteen, SoSo, Rogue Territory, Oni, Tanuki; all great brands but I was continually searching for ‘the perfect pair.’
In January 2018, I finally ended up purchasing the 18 oz. Pure Blue Japan x Blue Owl Workshop collab jeans in a double indigo x black overdye in a slim taper cut and that was it. I realized I hadn’t ever had a fit this perfect for my body, and it made all the difference in the world.
This one pair caused me to sell every other pair I owned because nothing fit like these and I didn’t want to wear anything else. They were the first pair I ever put any serious time into and I was humbled to win the year-long fade contest Blue Owl designed the jeans around! I wore them for a year straight pretty much every day and never washed them, only giving them three soaks along the way and the fade results were wild!
After the contest ended, I bought a pair of Iron Hearts and entered a whole new realm of high-end denim. There is without a doubt many reasons why they are so highly regarded. I have yet to find their rival in construction and commitment to quality, not only in the product but in customer service as well as a dedicated community of die-hard fans. Just visit the Iron Heart forum and you’ll understand what I’m talking about! Iron Heart has quickly become an obsession of mine and I don’t mind that one bit.
I’m currently wearing a pair of Iron Heart 555XHSib 25 oz. Indigo x Black for another year-long contest through Facebook started by @denimstrummer. If anyone wants to follow the contest on Instagram, you can follow the hashtag #indigoinvitational2019 – there’s also an Instagram and a Facebook page.
Iron Heart 555XHSib 25 oz. Indigo x Black
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
A: I’m fascinated with the evolution process of raw denim and I love how every little variable can change the end result.
T: How do you wash your denim?
A: I have yet to wash a pair of denim. I’ve only ever soaked and hung dry.
T: What’s your favourite denim brand?
A: Currently, Iron Heart for construction purposes, but Pure Blue Japan will always be at the top of my list for beautiful materials, texture and fit.
T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?
A: For me, it’s all about body type. I’m a slim guy so I wear slim cuts. Either slim straight or slim taper. My favorite cuts are Pure Blue Japan’s XX-013 “slim taper” and from Iron Heart the 555 or the 777.
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
A: Being from Boulder, I’m spoiled to have Truman Boot Co. about five minutes away. I love everything they do. If you’ve never tried a pair, you should.
I’m currently trying to track down a Real McCoy’s Buco J24-L – definitely a ‘grail jacket.’ If anyone has a size 40 laying around, let a homie know!
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
A: Vans.
T: Favourite item that’s not denim or leather?
A: Most definitely anything from Good Art Hlywd. Josh Warner and his team do not f*ck around when it comes to making quality goods.
And then probably my skateboard. It’s something that’s been a part of my life for close to 30 years.
Jay Adams once said:
“You didn’t quit skateboarding because you got old, you got old because you quit skateboarding”
RIP Jay.
T: Where do you buy your gear?
A: I try to support my local shops, so Canoe Club in Boulder, Berkeley Supply in Denver, and every now and then I’ll get lucky with a Grailed buy. And I spend a lot of time on the Iron Heart Forum watching and learning and they have a great buy/sell page there as well.
T: What’s your monthly clothing budget?
A: Budget? It’s mostly just chaotic impulse followed by fingernail biting and then figuring out whether or not I really need to eat for the rest of the month.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
A: For me, fit is everything. It can be a bit tedious finding what works and what doesn’t, but worth it in the end.
Other than that, just be yourself and don’t worry about what anyone else thinks. After all, we’re just a bunch of guys and gals watching each other wear pants.
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
Joining us once again is boot reviewer, Carl Murawski. For this second episode in a batch recording (the first was episode #20), we’re talking about the state of influencers on the heritage style scene.
Throughout the episode, we’re talking about the influencers that brands seek out to help push their products and the pitfalls influencer marketing.
Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Thomas: How did it all start with your Instagram feed?
Florian: I’ve been fading proper raw denim since 2013. After a couple of years, I found out about reddit.com/r/rawdenim. It was super dope to be in a community of like-minded weirdo’s who talk about pants. At some point, the moderators started removing posts that didn’t match their (very long list of) rules of posting in that sub. Switched to Instagram the same day.
T: Why Instagram? What are your goals?
F: Raw denim is a very visual culture, and Instagram is by far the best medium for it. I really don’t have any real goals with this whole thing. It’s great to have some sort of denim diary to be able to look back on past fades.
Of course, the social aspect is very important; it’s amazing to chat directly with producers, store owners and the best fading denimheads. Everyone is very open and approachable, I love that.
Lastly, I do feel that Instagram is somewhat of a fake world. Everything is prettier than AFK. While denim is such a non-bull-shit piece of clothing, I’d like to bring a bit purer raw denim love back online. Therefore, every photo I post is focussed on a pair of denim and I don’t use any filters.
Because I started wearing a non-indigo selvedge Tellason Ladbroke Grove at the time I played the album (Corsicana Lemonade) the song was on a lot, I picked it as my denim username (minus the E at the end, because it was too long).
T: How much time do you spend on Instagram on a daily basis?
F: Let me check … Today I’ve spent an hour and 22 minutes on Instagram, according to my phone. That time mostly goes to the account of my company, a small portion to my personal account, and I’ve probably spent around 30 minutes on my denim account.
T: How do you take your photos?
F: I think my wife did help me out on some photos, maybe just three of them though. It’s mostly a solo thing for me.
T: Which tools do you use?
F: iPhone X, using a bench and a flat white cup as a camera-stand/tripod thing. Very high-end stuff, haha!
T: What’s your editorial flow?
F: Concept-wise everything I do need to make at least a little sense. So I’ve started taking photos in a three-in-a-row style, which is a great way to show more aspects of the same subject. I try to post a new three-in-a-row every week. Often during, or somewhere around, the weekend.
Most importantly; whenever I don’t feel like posting I don’t. This thing is and should always feel like a hobby for me.
T: What are your favourite locations to take photos? And why?
F: My company’s headquarters. We have the most amazing tall windows on a corner space. The lighting is just ace here and it’s a great 5-minute break for me.
Florian’s Denim Style and Preferences
T: How did you get into denim?
F: Living in Amsterdam means denim is and has been everywhere. The first quality denim I bought was around 2006. A non-selvedge distressed pair by Blue Blood. The fabric and build quality was amazing.
After that, Denham popped up, making some more simple washed and also raw pairs of denim. I ended up owning multiple pairs. Still not really with the goal to change the looks of them, to fade them heavily.
That started in 2013 when I bought a 16.5 oz pair of Tellason Ladbroke Groves at Tenue de Nîmes. I remember having bruises on my hips because I wore them daily while commuting to work on my bike, haha! 927 wears and counting. Absolutely love the pair. It’s my GOAT.
T: What’s your favourite feature of jeans?
The fit should be good but to me the fabric is everything. I try to buy a very different fabric from what’s in my closet with every new denim purchase.
F: The fabric. I often hate little details. Or too many details. The embroidery leaf on my PBJs I only accept because the rest of the build is so basic and classic.
T: How do you wash your denim?
F: I often soak after around 150 or 200 wears. And first wash after 300 wears.
When a pair is really grimy, I use a piece of ox-gall soap and rub the entire denim with cold water. But that’s only after 500 wears or more.
T: What’s your favourite denim brand?
F: Ah man, I was afraid this question would come up. I love the diversity of this whole thing most of all. I do have a soft spot for Japanese denim brands. Oni and PBJ are brands I own and really love.
T: What’s your favourite fit? And why?
F: I’ve always worn quite tight and tapered fits. Like the Ladbroke Groves. I also have a Tenue de Nîmes pair that I had tailored to be really slim fitting. Love that. But since my (secret denim fabric) Oni started stretching a lot, I’m digging a looser fit more and more. Maybe my next pair will be something like an orSlow 105.
T: Which boots and leather goods do you wear with your denim?
F: Red Wing, Fracap and Moma boots. Soulland and Grenson loafers.
T: Which sneakers do you wear?
F: Loads. I don’t photograph them too often though. Yeezy V2’s and 500, Gyakusou, Opening Ceremony, Air 180. I also love my Teva and Suicoke sandals.
F: There’s no fixed budget. And at the moment, with two small kids, there really is no budget at all. Not a bad thing for them mad fades though because I put more wears in older denim.
T: What styling tips would you give your followers if they wanted your style?
F: Not sure if I can help anyone with that. I’m still trying to find the style I feel most comfortable in myself. Would love to see denim heads wearing better sneakers though!
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
This week on the podcast, Jake and I are joined by my buddy Lennaert Nijgh from Benzak Denim Developers. We talk about how he got into denim, but also about the details of jeans, something he cares deeply about.
Lennaert and I first got to know each other back in 2013 when he launched his brand and I did a feature about it. Since then, we’ve become good friends.
If you want more, check out the online mini-course Lennaert and I made together last year, and I shot a ‘denim cribs‘ video of his new studio.
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻 And don’t forget to send us your questions at podcast@denimhunters.com.
Shareworthy Posts and People I’ve Seen on Instagram Lately
For the past year, through my Blue Blooded Instagrammers Q&A series, I’ve posted the stories of the denim dudes and dudettes who share their passion and fades on Instagram.
It’s been a lot of fun getting to know so many people from around the globe that I probably wouldn’t have otherwise had contact with. Some have become friends since I posted their Q&A; some I’ve had the pleasure of meeting in real-life; one of them I’ve started a podcast with!
After 60 Q&As, it’s time for something different. I want to try something that’s a more “quick and dirty.” A curation of what I’ve seen on Instagram recently. So, I’m starting what will probably turn into a new series. The frequency of it I haven’t decided 🙄
It’s essentially a public list of denim-related posts and people that’ve caught my attention as I’ve thumbed through Instagram. In no particular order for you to thumb or scroll through.
Inspired by your classic TV-guide, I’m calling it ‘what’s on Instagram.’
A post shared by Clutch-Cafe (@clutchcafelondon) on
Have something to share? Let me know!
If there’s something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share next, let me know! Send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
We’re at episode #23 now and Jake and I are, once again, joined by my good friend Lennaert Nijgh, the founder of Benzak Denim Developers. On this episode, we’re talking about what it’s like making jeans in Japan.
We start the conversation with a discussion about why and how the Japanese became the best country for jeans (and many other products that originally came from other countries) in the world.
That discussion comes with a recommendation for the amazing book about how Japan saves American style, Ametora. It also leads us to talk about The Osaka Five and Toyoda shuttle looms.
… Stay Tuned for Season 2!
This episode will the last of what will be season 1 of the podcast as we’re turning it into a season-based show going forward.
To prepare for season 2, we will be taking a short break from our weekly publishing. But we promise it’ll be worth waiting for!
Stay subscribed – or subscribe in iTunes (Apple Podcast) if you haven’t done so already – to make sure you’ll be notified when we launch season 2.
And as always, if you like the show and want to help us reach more listeners just like you, please leave a rating and a review on iTunes 👏🏻
Bert has also answered my Q&A. You’ll find that post here.
Have something to share? Let me know!
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share next in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
