33 Shareworthy Posts and People from I’ve Seen Instagram Recently
It’s Monday and that usually means there’s a new episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast published. Not this week.
We’re taking a short break from our weekly publishing schedule to focus on the preparation and production of season 2. (If you’ve listened to episode #23, you already knew that.)
So, on this Monday, you’re getting another instalment of my new ‘what’s on Instagram’ series. This time, I’ve done a little more curating of the posts I’m including.
I quite enjoy doing these. If you also like them, do let me know. If you don’t, well, you can tell me too.
As a marketing guy and copywriter, I had to include this one too! It’s not Apple in its copywriting haydays, but it’s pretty good 😁
Have something to share? Let me know!
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share next in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
41 Shareworthy Posts and People from I’ve Seen Instagram Recently
Since I posted the third instalment in this series on Monday, I’ve visited Munich once again for the Bluezone denim trade show, which means I actually haven’t had that much time to scroll through my feed.
Nonetheless, I did manage to save a couple dozen posts, which I’ve curated below.
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share next in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
Since I published the 4th instalment in this series, two important things have happened:
1) My good friend Ruedi Karrer aka @swissjeansfreak has turned 60 years old (on Sunday, September 8). We actually already started the celebration last week in Munich during Bluezone with the launch of his collab with Candiani, but Sunday was the official Ruedi-day.
The 19-minute documentary about Ruedi and his passion, which I co-directed, has just been published. (I’ve put it at the bottom of this blog post.)
2) The celebration week of the Iron Heart forum’s 10th anniversary has started. So I’m seeing even more Iron Heart than usual in my feed, which means you’ll see it too in this blog post 😄
I had to include this one 🤷🏼♂️😅 You can pick of a copy of Blue Blooded right here.
Here’s the Ruedi Documentary!
… and as promised, here’s the documentary about Ruedi and his collaboration with Candiani Denim that I co-directed. Enjoy! 🎬
Have something to share? Let me know!
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
Another workweek is nearing the end and what a week it’s been!
Between work, family and checking out the new iPhones, I spent a little time helping out Ruedi update The Jeans Museum website (something he hadn’t done since around 2001!). There’s not a lot of content – yet – but now he at least has a CMS (the old site was pre-Wordpress and built in HTML!). And yes, the theme is the same that I’m using here on Denimhunters, so they do look alike. But don’t all websites these days? 🤷🏼♂️
This is what the Jeans Museum’s website used to look like 🦖
Other than that, I also spent a little time on the good ol’ Instagram and here’s what I’ve bookmarked. The algorithm is still throwing a lot of Ruedi, and Iron Heart at me, which isn’t surprising considering that it’s Iron Heart Forum anniversary weekend.
But I’ve also saved a couple of posts about the upcoming Indigofera 10-year anniversary party next weekend, on September 21 in Stockholm, where the brand’s collaboration with Red Wing will be launched. Looking very much forward to attending that one!
And there’s a ton of other good stuff too, of course! Happy scrolling ✌🏼
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
Another weekend just flew by didn’t it? It’s already Tuesday afternoon?! What’ve you been up to? I spent mine painting our windows (#wannabehandyman #houseownerslife #isecretlydigit).
Anyway, I did stop by “the Instagram” as well and saved a post or two. Here’s a curated selection of the stuff I liked the most.
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
In between work, recording a podcast episode, and doing my part around the house, I also went to Stockholm on Sat-Sun for the 10-year-anniversary party of Indigofera!
As a result, I only spent an average of only 16 minutes (!!) on Instagram a day. Down from the usual +1 hour! So, this ‘what on Instagram’ update – the first in a week since #7 – is admitted a little lighter than usual.
That said, you’ll still get a nicely curated selection of fades, boots and people I’ve saved on Instagram this past week. Enjoy ✌🏻
A post shared by Mood Indigo (@moodindigovintage) on
Have something to share? Let me know!
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message through the contact form below or DM me on my Instagram.
In this episode of the second season of The Denim & Boots Podcast, I talk to Nick Clements, the founder of Men’s File.
Nick has been photographing ‘revival style’ since the 1970s, and he’s studied the subcultures surrounding it since its very beginning. In 2005, he published the book Simulacra, which eventually led him to launch Men’s File.
Nick has been part of the heritage style scene since its very beginning in the 70s and 80s, long before it infiltrated more mainstream fashion. He’s witnessed and documented Japan’s role in this scene ever since it slowly started influencing the West in the late 80s. And he’s been going to Japan since the early 90s.
In this interview, Nick shares his experiences with heritage styles over the past four decades.
You can find out more about Men’s File on their website. To get in touch and stay up to day, follow the magazine on Instagram.
The easiest place to buy the magazines is directly from Men’s File’s publishing partner, Lightning.
Subscribe, Rate and Review the Podcast
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5- star rating and a positive review on iTunes 👏🏻
Remember a few years ago, when denim fade competitions were all the rage?
There was the Heavyweight Denim Championships 2 from 2013-2015, followed by the Denim World Championships (which Denimhunters was involved with).
After that, I personally lost a bit of interest in fade competitions. That’s until a few weeks back when I received an email from a fellow denimhead, suggesting I should do a story on the new competition on the block, the Indigo Invitational.
I’d seen the fade competition on Instagram around the time it started (June 1, 2019), but to be completely honest, in between work, being holiday over the summer, and having a second child, I hadn’t spent too much time researching it.
What I had seen was that the competition is sponsored by some people I know and respect, including Iron Heart and Self Edge.
I got in touch with the founder, Bryan Szabo aka @denimstrummer, a Canadian living in Budapest with a lot of initiative. And he was willing to answer all my questions 😁
Professionally, Bryan is a writer. In his spare time, he’s a rock star. Always in jeans, of course.
Tell us a little bit about yourself
I was born, raised, and educated in Western Canada. I made it to my early thirties without seeing much outside of Canada.
I’d been studying for most of my adult life, teaching dance and selling books in between university classes. When I finished my M.A. in 2011, I sold my house, sold my car, packed all of my books in boxes, and came to Europe with a pocket full of cash.
I tramped all over the continent and, after a few months on the road, I arrived in Budapest. I’d been here a few weeks when a Norwegian woman turned my head in a bar.
When I went back to Canada, we stayed in touch and, a few years later, I left my home and native for good and settled here in Hungary with her. We got married last year, and we’ll be here in BP until she’s finished her doctorate (a few more years).
By day, I’m an editor and ghostwriter. By night, I’m a musician (one half of CODIAC, an Americana cover band). In the hours between, I’m doing deep dives into the raw denim scene, trying to educate myself as much as possible.
How did you get into raw denim?
There were really two key moments.
In my late twenties, I was wearing True Religion, 7 For All Mankind, Gas, and Gsus denim. I was spending a fair amount, but the pre-faded pairs would almost immediately start falling apart.
My favourite pair was on its last legs, so I started researching sturdier denim. I didn’t look into it too deeply, so I ended up with a pair of Nudies. I loved the experience of breaking them in, but I wasn’t crazy about the Average Joe fit.
On the day I started travelling, I bought a pair of Naked & Famous from a shop in Vancouver. They were the only pair of jeans I brought with me, so the fades (and the smell) were intense when I got back to Canada and put them in the wash for the first time.
I was wearing these jeans in Calgary and browsing in a denim shop when a clerk struck up a conversation with me about raw denim. He mentioned Japanese denim and pointed to one of the other clerks who was wearing a pair darker and thicker than anything I’d ever seen before. “Iron Hearts,” he said. “The best denim you can buy.”
@kill_your_jeans is wearing these Iron Hearts in the Indigo Invitational.
I went home and started researching and, not long after, I bought my first pair (my 634s are still at the centre of my rotation).
I had still only scratched the surface, though. When I started running the competition, I was probably familiar with 6-8 of the Japanese raw brands and a few of the American ones. The Indigo Invitational has really pulled me headfirst down the rabbit hole.
Tell me about the competition. What is the Indigo Invitational?
The Indigo Invitational is a year-long international fade contest that welcomes all comers, all weights, and all brands.
There’s no registration or administration fee of any kind. The only barrier to entry is an unworn pair of raw denim and a willingness to send monthly fit pic updates so we have trackable fade progress.
We want all fades to be the natural result of heavy use and daily wear. Competitors can wash or soak their jeans as often as they like, but we’re not allowing any kind of artificial fading (no abrasives or bleaches of any kind).
We fired the starting pistol on June 1st with more than 100 competitors.
Before I joined the group, the idea of a fade contest had been floated a few times in threads and posts, but nobody had taken the initiative. All it needed was one little push to get the ball rolling.
The Raw Denim group on Facebook.
I felt that a fade contest was not just something that the community was willing to do—it was something it needed to do.
When I first joined the group, I noticed that almost all of the pictures people were posting were of brand-new raw denim. I had expected more of a focus on fade progress, but I wasn’t really seeing much of that.
When I asked why this was, some of the members talked about their deep rotation and the difficulty of getting fades when you’re working on four to five pairs at a time. Some of the members of the group have dozens of pairs—one of them has well over a hundred pairs, many of them sitting in storage, unworn with the tags still on.
As fade-producing enthusiasts will tell you, the only way to get great fades is to wear the hell out of a single pair, to beat the indigo out of them day in and day out. This produces the kind of beautiful fades that have drawn so many of us into this scene. If I wanted to see fades like this in the group, I had to find a way to push people to shorten their rotation and focus on a single pair. The Indigo Invitational is how I’ve done that.
How does the Indigo Invitational compare to some of the other denim fade contests out there?
When I looked at some of the other fade contests, I didn’t really see anything like the competition I wanted to run.
Most of them fall into one of two categories: either there is a fee for entry or competitors are expected to all purchase and fade the same pair.
The organizers and competitors may be deeply passionate about denim and fades, but prima facie, the contests seem to be either a for-profit enterprise or a way of driving product sales for a particular brand or stockist.
The Indigo Invitational will always be free for competitors, and we’ll never tell them what brand they should wear. There are just two of us running this competition, and we’ve both donated our time. Dave Dickinson, a long-time friend and a recently converted denim enthusiast, is helping me with the administration. His advice and companionship on this journey has been invaluable.
Are fade contests still relevant? Do they still have a place in this scene?
Absolutely! For the enthusiasts that I admire, fades are at the very heart of their passion for denim. Workwear or heritage clothing is meant to be worn out, not just worn. A fade contest incentivizes rugged daily wear.
Bryan’s Clints when new.
I’m competing in a pair of Indigofera Clint Winlocks, and I spent this summer actively seeking out opportunities to get dirty and sweaty in my jeans. I rode horses and jumped in the ocean. I cleaned out a barn, woodshed, and basement, and I got my jeans filthy in the process.
A fade competition like the Indigo Invitational gives faders a very good reason to beat the stuffing out of a pair. Without the competition, most of our faders would have probably spent the summer rolling through their rotation. With prizes on the line, they’re pushing harder for those fades than they might otherwise.
Are you seeing a common thread among the competitors?
That’s an interesting question. It’s tough to draw a bead on the personalities. All we’ve really got to go on is their photographs and their comments in the group.
We haven’t placed any limits on the conversations on the competition page (other than asking people to be respectful), but posts in the group seem to follow an unwritten rule: denim only.
Competitors might have passions other than denim or strong opinions on, say, politics, but these never seem to come up. This is probably for the best.
But there are definitely aesthetic similarities.
There’s something of a raw denim uniform (leather boots and belt, tees or flannels, and leather accessories). Most of the competitors (myself included) wear this uniform, or some variation of it, but you’d start a brawl if you told a bunch of denimheads that they all dress the same.
We’re a detail-oriented bunch. The enthusiast can spot the difference between a pair ofIron Hearts and a pair of Flat Heads from across the street. We all seem to sweat the small stuff.
The competitors are also a pretty experienced bunch.
I can count the number of competitors who are on their first pair of raw denim on one hand (my mother being one of them). Fading is a trial and error process, and almost everybody has been through it multiple times with multiple brands.
Everybody seems to have their own recipe for fades, and, while people are keen to talk about how they’re wearing and fading their denim, very few of the competitors have asked the kind of initiate questions that we have all asked and answered at some point.
What, in your mind, makes a good fader?
It’s early days, but the competitors who have separated themselves from the pack seem to be those who spend every waking (and occasionally sleeping) hour in their jeans.
Those who work office jobs and can only wear their denim on the weekend are a step or two behind those who spend 100+ hours per week in their jeans.
When this competition began, I was amazed at how quickly some of the Thai competitors are able to produce fades (the heat and the humidity help a great deal), but we also have a competitor who lives close to the arctic circle, and he has, in a remarkably short time, produced some of the best fades in the competition.
Climate certainly makes a difference, but more than this is the willingness to get out there and be active—essentially, to work in your workwear. The top-tier competitors are paying the cost to be the boss.
For the time being, I’m really focused on keeping the competitors engaged. This is a marathon, not a sprint, so getting people to that six-month mark, when the finish line will start to come into focus, is absolutely crucial.
We started with more than 100 competitors, and I’ll be thrilled if we cross the finish line with 75+ faders. We’ll be judging in three stages, and I want to make that judging process as transparent as possible. We’ll have three podium finishers and two spot prizes, and we need to be able to justify our judges’ decisions.
I’m in the process of working out a competition tee that should be available for competitors as we cross the half-way mark at the end of the year. I want the collaboration to be meaningful (not just another tee that gets stuffed in the back of the closet), so I’m working with some amazing people deeply embedded in the scene to produce a quality piece that we can all be proud to wear. I’m hoping that there are more collaborations of this kind on the horizon, but that will depend on how the tee collaboration shakes out.
We’re already starting to think about next year’s competition, which will start in fall of 2020. As long as the final stages of the competition are handled smoothly and fairly, I’m expecting that a lot of the competitors will return for year two.
With the way the fades are progressing, there are going to be some incredible pairs in our top 20, so I’m hoping that we’ll be able to use some of these incredible fade stories to drive new competitors to the Indigo Invitational next year. I’d like to see us start year two with 150+ competitors and between ten and fifteen sponsors.
That’s quite a list. What do you think the sponsors are getting out of the competition?
For some of the newer brands, it’s increased visibility.
Every competitor needed a brand new pair of raw denim. That meant that sponsors had access to a pool of 100+ competitors who were all in the market for jeans. Some brands recognized this opportunity and offered discounts. Two fledgeling raw brands even sponsored competitors with a free pair. The more eyes they can get on their brand, the better.
Our sponsors are definitely getting something out of the competition, but, at the end of the day, I don’t think that’s why they’ve signed on. It’s only partially a business decision.
Based on my conversations with them, they are all as passionate as I am about denim. Presumably, they were enthusiasts first, and then they turned that passion into a business. They’ve joined the competition as sponsors because they believe in what the Indigo Invitational stands for. They recognize that we’re doing something different, and they want to play a part in that.
Thanks so much for taking the time to talk to me today.
About four years ago, in the autumn of 2015, I began working on my book, Blue Blooded.
I knew from the beginning I wanted to write about the history of jeans, including the influence that Japan has had on it. But, at that time, little information about this topic was readily available and easily accessible to the public.
In the book, author W. David Marx shows how Japan saved not only blue jeans but American style in general. It’s a true milestone that revealed connections we didn’t previously comprehend here in the West.
I’m very excited that Jake and I were able to have David join us on the podcast to share his knowledge about Japan’s influence on heritage style – and fashion in general, for that matter.
Ametora was also at the top of my 2017-list of must-read denim books that inspired Blue Blooded. You can read that blog post here.
And if you don’t have the book yet, buy it here! I can also highly recommend the audiobook version of the book, narrated by Brian Nishii who pronounces all the Japanese names correctly (I assume).
Subscribe, Rate and Review the Podcast
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5-star rating and a positive review on iTunes 👏🏻
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message on my Instagram.
In this episode of the second season of The Denim & Boots Podcast, I talk to Pete and Tony from Tellason.
I’ve known the two Californians since around 2010 or ’11 when we first met at the Fire Dept. during the heydays of Bread & Butter in Berlin.
The all-American jeans-focused brand that’s based in San Francisco turned 10 this year. They were Cone Denim White Oak’s 4th biggest client till the very end. Now, their jeans are made from Japanese denim.
I wanted to talk to Pete and Tony about what it was like being forced to find another fabric supplier, and why they chose Japan.
You can follow Tellason on Instagram here. You can buy their jeans (and all their other great stuff) from their website, tellason.com.
Oh, and here are links to Pete and Tony’s favourite The Clash songs:
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5-star rating and a positive review on iTunes 👏🏻
Today (on October 18, 2019), the printed version of Sportswear International issue no. 290 hits the streets.
Not only is it this year’s ‘denim issue’ from the respected German trade publication; it’s also the first to have my writing in it 😁 On pages 36-48 of the magazine, you can read about my favourite top ten ‘denim destinations.’
Let me make one thing clear before you read on: I’m not trying to objectively say that these are the world’s ‘best’ denim stores. And, importantly, I did not list them based on which store I like the most!
When I got the brief for the article earlier this year, Sportswear’s editor-in-chief, Sabine Kühnl, specifically asked me to focus on my personal experience with ten denim stores.
I translated that into two criteria that the stores I would include had to meet:
1) I should have some personal experience with the store (all but one on the list I’ve visited) and
2) I would list the stores based on my first interaction with each of them.
Although I knew the stores quite well, I decided I would ask the people behind each of them to answer a Q&A as part of my research. Just to get their own perspectives.
But even with a ~3,750-word feature that covers ten pages of the magazine, I couldn’t include everything about each store. So, I decided (with Sportswear’s blessing) to share some of the Q&As in their full length with you.
Number five on my list is Tenue de Nîmes. Here are founder Menno van Meurs’ unedited answers. But first …
What is Sportswear International?
Sportswear International is a trade publication that focuses on the European casualwear and denim market. It was founded in 1975 and belongs to Germany’s largest trade publisher, Deutschen Fachverlag.
The magazine comes out four times a year and also has a website that is updated daily with industry-relevant news and background stories. You can read the digital version of issue 290 here.
Key Facts of Tenue de Nîmes
Menno van Meurs
Shop name:
Tenue de Nîmes
Location:
Two stores in Amsterdam
Opened in:
2008
Key people:
Menno van Meurs (Founder)
Rudy Ross (General Manager)
Five brands that define the store and its concept:
RRL
Levi’s Vintage Clothing
Momotaro
Visvim
Tenue.
The ‘original’ store on Elandsgracht
The ‘new’ store on Haarlemmerstraat
Menno’s Path Into Raw Denim and Heritage Style
Thomas: What triggered your passion for raw denim and heritage style?
Menno: My dad never had much as a kid and he’s had a hard time throwing things away as an adult. When my brother and I were young, we used to go upstairs and dress up in his 60s and 70s outfits, including Wrangler jeans, Levi’s Big E jackets and vintage biker boots.
These gems definitely were the first chapter of my love for functional denim clothing. I still have all of those items in my archive today, and my dad’s Levi’s jacket hangs in a frame in my office at the Tenue de Nîmes HQ.
T: What was your first pair of raw denim jeans? And what did they do for you?
M: My first pair of raw denim jeans were a selvedge US First jean by Gapstar (which later became G-Star RAW).
They were inspired by Levi’s buckle back jeans and were made of beautiful streaky denim fabric. It’s incredible to see how much they were inspired by true Americana when they started the brand.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
M: I used to work at a store called Mode D’Emploi in The Hague when I was studying. The co-founder of the store, Gerard Backx, was a true denim legend. I thank him for most of my hobbies that went a bit out of hand.
When he started making his own Atelier LaDurance jeans, the virus really hit me. From that moment onwards, I literally lived in raw denim. Work, party, school, I guess I was even sleeping in my jeans from that moment on.
T: What’s your favourite thing about raw denim?
M: Jeans are the most personal piece of clothing out there. When worn well, they become a part of you. Like a second skin.
We can all start to wear the same jeans today, but when we meet each other in a year from now you will see some spectacular; they all became different jeans. Jeans reveal so much of the life we live.
A pair of jeans ages because of the way we live in them. When I spoke about my love for denim with the famous Dutch couturier Jan Taminiau, he said to me: “Denim is the only thing in life that we actually forgive that it becomes older.” How beautiful is that?
T: When and why did you decide to open a store?
M: Back in 2007, I realised there were a lot of people embracing the concept of denim, but hardly anyone was really independently specialising in it. Everybody was taking a piece of the pie. But without really going ‘all in’ on it. Especially in the premium side of the spectrum, there was very little focus.
This is why it was time to open a store like my parents used to know in the 1970s where everybody could find their perfect pair of jeans. On top of that, opening my Tenue de Nîmes store would allow me to talk denim all day, every day!
The Concept of Tenue de Nîmes
T: What are three common characteristics of brands you stock?
M: First of all, the products we stock at Tenue de Nîmes are without exception made to last. We fanatically step away from the concept of clothes becoming something disposable. Clothes at our stores should stay!
Secondly, in addition to the first point, all brands are considered investment pieces. We encourage people to buy less and pay more for clothes.
Third, we believe that all the brands we stock at Tenue de Nîmes add their own unique chapter to the denim world. So whether it is A.P.C., Japan Blue or our own Tenue. brand, they all add to the heart and soul of denim history in their own, unique way.
T: Which brands are most popular with your customers? And why?
M: One of the raw denim brands that works best for us is our long-time partner Momotaro and their sub-label Japan Blue. We were the first store in Europe to work with Momotaro. We kicked off our partnership with a shop-in-shop that emphasised our love for their craftsmanship and attention to detail. Everything the Manabe family does breathe indigo. I am very proud that until today their brands are amongst the most successful we stock.
On the other side of the spectrum, we are successful with more contemporary denim brands such as Acne Studios and A.P.C. This mix between traditional and more contemporary brands is what we feel makes our assortment unique to the denim world.
T: What’s the story behind the name of the store?
M: If you would literally translate ‘Tenue de Nîmes’ it would mean ‘outfit from Nîmes.’ But we like to refer to it as ‘outfit from denim’ or ‘outfit combined with denim.’
Historically, we believe denim got its name from ‘serge de Nîmes’ (fabric from Nîmes). So Tenue de Nîmes refers to what we like to wear the most; a denim ‘tenue.’
T: Where did the inspiration for the store decoration and design come from?
M: In addition to our product mix, we also search for an interesting clash between contemporary design and true interior classics. On top of that, we love to combine honest materials like stone and wood with steel and glass.
The styling of the stores is influenced by the US, Scandinavia and Japan. One of our best friends runs a mid-century design store that provides us with nothing but the best from designers like George Nelson and Hans Wegner, and we’ve been collecting Japanese artefacts ever since we started. I guess we really live inside our own Tenue de Nîmes atmosphere.
T: What do you think customers value most about your store?
M: I honestly believe our stores are the place where people find the love and attention they miss online. Of course, there is a lot to gain online, but I feel that our stores have the ability to make you feel welcome and at home.
Put on top of that the expertise of the store staff and you have your answer. We alter jeans while people are waiting. We inspire them to check out new brands. A Tenue de Nîmes store is a place where people let go of time. Where they get inspired. Where they feel the warmth and can connect with others.
T: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
M: Well, I feel that anyone who looks back the last decade will understand it’s been challenging all along. Crises, retail upside-down, brands and retailers going online, etc.
It is a new retail paradigm and no one really knows where it’ll land. So although times ahead really excite me, I also think everything will continue to change drastically in the years to come. Never a dull moment in retail!
T: Why should denimheads visit your store? What makes it a ‘denim destination’?
M: Tenue de Nîmes is a denim destination ever since we started in 2008.
We offer a huge and unique mix of denim brands from all over the world and do free alterations while customers are enjoying a coffee or a nice beer. All jeans that leave the Tenue de Nîmes stores are basically custom made and ready to be used for years!
Tenue de Nîmes made a special denim dictionary (below) with all the words any denim head should know by heart. The dictionary is free with every purchase.
Want to Learn More About Denim?
If you’d like to read more personal stories and Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
If you have a question you’d like me to answer – maybe in a future blog posts – send it to me here. I also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!
Three episodes in to season 2 of the podcast, and we’ve learned about the origins of heritage style with Nick Clements; W. David Marx (the author of Ametora) has talked about how Japan saved American style; and industry-veterans, Pete Searson and Tony Patella aka Tellason have explained why chosing ‘made in Japan’ was really the only option after White Oak closed in 2017.
This week on the podcast, Jake his picking up the mic in an interview with Mike from Indigoshrimp to talk about some of the changes we’re currently in the heritage style industry.
Specifically, they talk about the closure of The Flat Head, which was announced not long before the recording.
This leads them to discuss how other Japanese brands may shut down when owners retire, due to poor sales, or because there simply aren’t enough Japanese craftspeople to make the products.
Subscribe, Rate and Review the Podcast
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5-star rating and a positive review on iTunes 👏🏻
This week is the week of the year to be in Amsterdam. It’s Denim Days! And I’m not there (buhu!) 😭
So, while every denimhead on the planet is there (well, at least that’s how it feels), here’s a curated selection of stuff I’ve seen and saved on Instagram over the past couple of weeks.
If you’ve seen something or someone on Instagram that you think I should share in my next ‘what’s on Instagram’ post, send me a message on my Instagram.
Mike Falkner from Wild Frontier Goods has done something many of us denimheads probably dream about; he’s moved to Japan for denim.
He got into raw denim in the mid-00s. As he tells it on the podcast, the story goes something like this:
Mike had a friend back home in his native Florida who ran a little fashion boutique. One day, Mike was buying a pair of Diesel jeans, and they’d just received a shipment of Nudie jeans. Mike didn’t completely ‘get it,’ but when he got home, he checked out the MyNudie forum. The next day, he went back and bought a pair.
Fast forward a few years and Mike won the first Naked & Famous denim fading contest. He was hooked!
Listen to the episode to hear about how Mike ended up in Japan, and what it’s like to live out there.
Subscribe, Rate and Review the Podcast
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5-star rating and a positive review on iTunes 👏🏻
20 years ago, the concept of the ‘experience economy’ was introduced. The theory argues that creating memorable experiences is increasingly important in a retail landscape where products are being commoditised.
That’s not really a problem for Brund – or any of the stores I figured in my article in issue 290 of Sportswear International, for that matter. But they still know how to sell with a good story.
Brund is the denim and heritage style store in Denmark. I’m completely biased on this one, I admit it. But I guess that was the purpose for the article I wrote for Sportswear 🤷🏼♂️
I worked in the store when I was a student. And I’ve been working there again for 2-3 days a month for the past two years. I enjoy getting out in the real world talking to real people. And, as you might have guessed, it gives me access to brands like Iron Heart, Red Wing and Indigofera 😉
So, of course, Brund is on the list of my top ten personal favourite denim stores.
Here’s the Q&A with founder and owner, Henrik Brund, which I used to write about the store for Sportswear. But before we get to that …
What is Sportswear International?
Sportswear International is a trade publication that focuses on the European casualwear and denim market. It was founded in 1975 and belongs to Germany’s largest trade publisher, Deutschen Fachverlag.
The magazine comes out four times a year and also has a website that is updated daily with industry-relevant news and background stories. You can read the digital version of issue 290 here.
Key Facts about Brund
Peter Rerskov (left) and Henrik Brund.
Shop name:
Brund – Jeans & boots
Location:
Copenhagen, Denmark
Opened in:
January 2004
Key people:
Henrik Brund (founder and owner)
Peter Rerskov (store manager)
Five brands that define the store and its concept:
Thomas: What triggered your passion for raw denim and heritage style?
Henrik: The strange stories about denim and workwear, that did not make any sense compared to basic history lessons in school. But also all these myths about denim, which have been fun to break down.
T: What was your first pair of raw denim jeans? And what did they do for you?
H: Pair of Levi’s in the ’70s and they did not do any good, as my mom used to iron them, so they get creases.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
H: I have always bought rinsed jeans (it’s was back in the days often difficult to find raw denim), as I have never understood the concept of buying ¨pre-used/strangely washed¨ These variants of jeans, you have for a shorter time and in the end cost you more money. Don’t make any sense.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
H: WelI, it’s like a blank page in a book of poems. I like the idea of making ‘my own’ jeans, by using them a lot, to see and discover the dept in the fabric and life the jeans eventually get after wearing, washing and repairing.
Photo: Brian Engblad
Photo: Brian Engblad
T: When and why did you decide to open a store?
H: This decision was not about denim specific. When I bought the place I was planning to open a shop with furniture, more specific chairs.
My dream was to have my own place with high-quality goods in old classic designs, that you could have for a long time and see the beauty of patina. We all know how beautiful an old piece of leather or wood can be after many years of use. Just like a pair of well-worn jeans.
The Concept of Brund
T: What are 3 common characteristics of brands you stock?
H: High quality compared to price, old designs that you don’t need to redesign, and goods you can have for a long time.
Photo: Brian Engblad
Photo: Brian Engblad
Photo: Brian Engblad
T: Which brands are most popular with your customers? And why?
H: All the brands are popular! It’s more about our cooperation with the brands and not change the portfolio to often and then we have always focused on storytelling and educating our customers about good quality and long-lasting products.
T: What’s the story behind the name of the store?
H: It’s my family name. I had several names in mind, but my friends kept telling me, just to name the store by my family name. So the Brund store was born.
Photo: Brian Engblad
T: Where did the inspiration for the store decoration and design come from?
H: Many places and the decorations and shop fittings have evolved over the years. It was very ‘raw’ in 2004 😉
T: What do you think customers value most about your store?
H: The diversity, our knowledge, our sincerity and that you’re always feeling welcome in the store.
T: Why should denimheads visit your store? What makes it a ‘denim destination’?
H: Our brand mix, and the vibe we have created in the store. In my point of view, there are many different kinds of ‘denimheads.’
Everyone is treated equal, from the denim nerds, to the gentleman who just wants a good pair of good quality “blå cowboybukser” (the Danish words for ‘jeans’).
But also the diversity of the shop and that we don’t have all our goods on the web makes it an experience to visit the physical store.
Jeans and boots need to be tried on 😁
Photos (except profile of Peter and Henrik): Brian Engblad
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more personal stories and Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
If you have a question you’d like me to answer – maybe in a future blog posts – send it to me here. I also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!
This week on the podcast, Jake talks to Kyle Robinson aka @rocktransformed. If you’re on SuperFuture, you probably know Kyle by his former alias, ‘Cold Summer,’ which he still (only) uses on that forum.
I first got in touch with Kyle in 2013 when he sent a brand profile of The Flat Head for publication here on Denimhunters. At that time, he was working for the infamous, now defunct, Japanese jeans maker.
In 2006, while a freshman at college, Kyle decided—since he was into Japanese indie rock bands (and girls)—he should learn Japanese. Eventually, he found himself living in northern Japan working as a teacher.
Listen to find out what Kyle learned during the year he was working for The Flat Head. Kyle also recently launched the blog, Rocktransformed.
Listen, Subscribe, Rate and Review
You can listen to the episode with the SoundCloud player at the top of this blog post. Or you can listen and subscribe on: Stitcher, TuneIn, Spotify, SoundCloud, and of course Apple Podcast.
If you like this episode, and the podcast in general, please leave a 5-star rating and a positive review on iTunes.
In the autumn of 2013, my wife and I went on a weekend getaway to London. This was about a year after Rivet & Hide had opened as an online-only retailer. It would be another half year before they’d open their first brick and mortar store.
I’d arranged with co-founder Danny Hodgson to visit their office and workshop in West London on the Saturday. I was particularly excited about getting to try out their Union Special 43200G sewing machine from 1950 on a pair of Indigofera jeans I’d brought along.
Junior and Danny at their store in Manchester.
Danny’s spouse Junior, who’s also the other half of the team, was there to show me the ropes. It was my first (and so far only) attempt at hemming a pair of jeans. I failed catastrophically. Luckily, Junior finished the job like a pro. After that, they took us out for dinner and we told stories about denim.
Rivet & Hide is internationally recognised as one of the world’s finest retailers of ‘rare denim,’ as they call it.
It almost goes without saying that they’re on my personal top 10 of denim destinations, which I wrote about in issue #289 of Sportswear International. Here’s the Q&A I did with Danny as part of my research for the article.
Key Facts about Rivet & Hide
Shop name:
Rivet & Hide
Locations:
London and Manchester
Opened in:
2012
Key people:
Danny Hodgson and Junior Arraes (founders and owners)
Thomas: What triggered your passion for raw denim and heritage style?
Danny: I have always been interested in classic style and raw denim played its part in that.
In the early 2000s, I had some raw Levi’s that fit and aged so nicely. I bought a pair of Nudie selvedge jeans soon after and, like comparing two wines, I could see how each evolved over time with wear and washing.
That made me curious about the next pair and so on and so on.
Rivet & Hide in London.
Rivet & Hide in London.
Rivet & Hide in London.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
D: When I counted about 20 pairs of jeans in my wardrobe and was still interested in owning more.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
D: Raw denim is pretty timeless.
After 30 wears, the denim is starting to mould to you in a way washed jeans never can. This process happens whether they are a super slim, relaxed taper or straight fit.
That is when they start to look like your own unique pair, become ever more comfortable, the first signs of the indigo popping and the fading patterns begin to emerge.
T: When and why did you decide to open a store?
D: For some time, I had wanted to start my own business, and I began dreaming about giving a home to these great brands I had discovered eg 3sixteen, The Flat Head, Pure Blue Japan which hitherto had no representation in the UK.
I did not come from a fashion or retail background so this was quite a challenge personally. Initially, the intention was to open online only and during the first nine months that is how we operated.
Soon customers were asking to come and see the brands in person and try the clothes on rather than simply buy online. So I welcomed these pioneering customers into my living room in West London and soon the business outgrew the flat where I lived at the time.
Both Rivet & Hide stores offer hemming service on Union Special 43200G machines. This one is in the Manchester store.
I hired an office nearby where we mounted a small display and hemmed jeans. This was known as the workshop and customers would visit by appointment. People were so excited to find the brands in the UK and I got the opportunity to meet them face to face and see such a strong reaction to the quality of the collections.
I realised the next logical step would be to open a store and within months our first store in Central London opened. I also felt I owed it to the brands to give them a proper home in London. The workshop was great but it needed taking up a gear.
Our second store in Manchester opened this year. The reaction has been so positive and we have been warmly welcomed in this great northern city. We are super excited about seeing the store there grow just as the London one has done over the last five years.
Rivet & Hide in Manchester.
Rivet & Hide in Manchester.
The Concept of Rivet & Hide
T: What are 3 common characteristics of brands you stock?
D: Next level quality, original fabrics, classic style.
T: What’s the story behind the name of the store?
D: The rivet is an essential component of any jean. The hide refers to the leather patch, but most customers assume it is a reference to leather jackets, which is great as seven years ago I never realised we’d end up offering the best leather jackets you could ever wish to own.
T: What do you think customers value most about your store?
D: They trust us. They trust that we will never compromise on quality.
We also focus on the quality of our service whether it be online or in one of the two physical locations. It is unusual these days to receive such a personalised service with such detailed product knowledge.
Rivet & Hide in Manchester.
T: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
D: There has been many. Opening a second store while the Brexit drama is still playing out has been either brave or foolhardy.
It might be a cliche but business needs certainty. I am very open about my feelings on this issue. Being able to trade freely within the richest single market in the world is a huge benefit that could soon be voluntarily lost. To me that is madness.
I now have nine salaries to pay each month, two store rents to pay, and amazing product to buy. Brexit does not promote this in any way.
T: Why should denimheads visit your store? What makes it a ‘denim destination’?
D: I would not describe our customers as ‘denimheads.’ A small percentage might be denim collectors but most just love a great pair of jeans and clothing of superior quality and timeless style.
We really do carry the best denim brands on offer and have such a strong collection throughout the year. A visit to us is always worth it!
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more personal stories and Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
If you have a question you’d like me to answer – maybe in a future blog post – send it to me here. I also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!
In the summer of 2013, my wife and I spent four weeks in the US on our honeymoon.
First stop was San Francisco, a city known for its bridges, hills, and free spirit. Fans of denim also know it as the cradle of Levi’s and blue jeans as we know them. And if you’re into raw denim, you surely know it for Self Edge.
Founded by Kiya and Demitra Babzani, Self Edge has played a central role in bringing Japanese raw denim to the western parts of the world; being the first retailer outside of Japan to stock brands like Dry Bones, Strike Gold, and Real Japan Blues.
With five branches across North America – two of which are co-owned and operated by Andrew Chen and Johan Lam of 3sixteen – Self Edge has been established as an authority in the raw denim scene.
Of course, Self Edge is one of the top 10 denim destinations I wrote about in issue #289 of Sportswear International. Here’s the Q&A I did with Kiya as part of my research for the article.
Key Facts about Self Edge
Shop name:
Self Edge
Locations:
San Francisco, New York City, Los Angeles and Portland in the USA, and San Jose del Cabo in Mexico
Opened in:
2006
Key people:
Kiya and Demitra Babzani (founders)
Andrew Chen and Johan Lam (co-owners of the NYC and LA stores, and owners of 3sixteen)
Kiya Babzani
Five brands that define the store and its concept:
Thomas: What triggered your passion for raw denim and heritage style?
Kiya: It all came from music. Music being a driving force behind how a person dresses has always fascinated me, and “dressing the part” can be so much fun when the music you’re into in a certain point in your life dictates how you should dress.
T: What was your first pair of raw denim jeans? And what did they do for you?
K: A pair of Yamane Deluxe (owner of Evisu’s luxury line from the mid-’90s) bought at the Yamane Saloon in Hong Kong in the late ’90s.
Having an unsanforized pair of jeans bought in those years meant really listening to the sales associate at the store as there was little to zero information on the internet about what to do with them, I loved that connection between the product, the retail store, and the client.
Los Angeles
Mexico
San Francisco
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
K: It was the thrill of the hunt. Back then there was very little information about raw denim on the internet, so it would be all about talking to sales associates in retail stores which sold raw denim to find out about the fabrics, fading, soaking, etc.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
K: I love the way that it changes with the wearer over time, fading and ageing in so many ways with regular wear. This is still what makes raw denim interesting to me.
T: When and why did you decide to open a store?
I had a couple of other stores before Self Edge and we sold some brands which I felt directed the store’s success and image. I wanted to have a store where I could tell a new story, one which hadn’t been told before in the west, and that’s what led my wife and me to start Self Edge.
New York City
The Concept of Self Edge
T: What are three common characteristics of the brands you stock?
K: They’re honest, well made, and don’t follow any current trends.
T: Which brands are most popular with your customers? And why?
K: We have such a wide range of clients now that there is no one favorite. We have different clients coming in for very different brands at our shops. Some only come in for jewelry now, some only come in for leather jackets, and of course, some only come in to pick up some jeans.
T: What’s the story behind the name of the store?
K: It’s a reference to the word “selvedge” before the turn of the century when it was shortened the full name of the style of fabric was “self edge” or “self edging” fabric.
Los Angeles
T: Where did the inspiration for the store decoration and design come from?
K: We allowed the product to dictate what the store design would be. We thought “what would these garments want the store to look like?” and that’s what led us to the Self Edge look which we have now.
T: What do you think customers value most about your store?
K: It would have to be a combination of the knowledge of our sales associates combined with the largest selection of basic garments from Japan you can find in one store. We have over 100 jean models, over 50 blank t-shirts, over 30 crewneck sweaters, over 30 styles of plain leather belts, etc.
Mexico
Mexico
Mexico
T: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
K: One day you wake up and you realize what was a passion-based business turned into a very real business and that brings a certain level of stress with it. But being surrounded with great people to work with and fun product makes it worth it.
T: Why should denimheads visit your store? (What makes it a ‘denim destination’?)
K: I don’t think any other store, even in Japan, really goes as hard into the entire Japanese denim brand world as we do today. If you visit one of our stores and spend some time going through our products and speak to our sales associates, I believe you’d agree.
Ready for More Q&As?
If you’d like to read more personal stories and Q&As, you can check out all the previous ones right here. Want to make sure you never miss one? Sign up for the free weekly Denimhunters email newsletter.
If you have a question you’d like me to answer – maybe in a future blog post – send it to me here. I also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!
In less than two weeks, another year will be over.
I’m dedicating this last blog post of 2019 here on Denimhunter to look back on five of my most important highlights of the year.
About two months old
2 weeks old
3 days old
Highlight #1: Second Time Daddy!
2019 was the year where three became four for the Stege Bojer family.
During Christmas last year, all of a sudden, my wife couldn’t stand coffee anymore. The day before New Year’s Eve, a scan revealed a little extra heartbeat was the reason.
On August 25, Jens Christian was born 👶🏻
Nick Clements
Scott Morrison
Bryan
Tellason
Carl Murawski
Ben Viapiana
Highlight #2: Podcasting
It’s been the year where I got to realise something I’d wanted to do for a long time; start a podcast.
Together with Jake from Almost Vintage Style, I’ve put out 29 episodes of The Denim & Boots Podcast, something I’m very proud of. Above is a collage with some of the amazing guests we’ve had on the show.
After almost nine years of creating content, podcasting has been (by far) the most fun and the most engaging medium I’ve worked with.
Here’s a list of the three most played episodes at the time of publication:
My own favourite episode is the interview we did with W. David Marx about how Japan saved American style. That one you’ll find here.
You can listen to all the episodes of The Denim & Boots Podcast right here.
Highlight #3: Documenting the ‘Ruedi’ Jeans
In the spring of 2019, Candiani asked me to help them document the creation of a very special pair of jeans to celebrate Ruedi Karrer aka the Swiss Jeans Freak’s 60th birthday.
Watch or rewatch the documentary above.
Self Edge
Rivet & Hide
Brund
Tenue de Nîmes
Highlight #4: Sportswear International Article
At the beginning of 2019, I made a goal for myself to get my writing published outside of Denimhunters.
In October, issue #289 of Sportswear International came out with a 10-page article about my favourite denim retailers.
This autumn, I started collaborating with Bryan Szabo from the Indigo Invitational competition, who’s published five blog posts so far here on the blog.
… that third place probably had something to do with Netflix getting the show Ghost Town Gold, starring Brit Eaton. If you haven’t binged it yet, you can do so here.
Best 9 from my Instagram
No year review without a list of the best 9 from my Instagram:
