This blog post and Denimhunters video production is sponsored by Soorty.
Retracing Denim’s History to Learn How to Make the Future Greener
The thing that got me hooked on denim was the fact that it fades. To this day, it’s my favourite thing about denim; I love keeping track of how the indigo is slowly chipped away from the fabric. That’s why I only wear raw denim.
But the history of denim and jeans is another aspect of the blue world that has always fascinated me. And a big part of that history is pre-washing.
During Bluezone back in September, Soorty offered me and my buddy Wouter Munnich a chance to go behind the scenes and see how it’s done; to retrace how it began in the 1960s when those early pioneers of pre-washing began to purposely make the jeans they sold look old and worn.
Today, only a fraction of the +1 billion jeans that’re produced annually are not pre-washed. And it’s become a major challenge for the industry; because pre-washing requires a significant amount of resources.
Multiple finishing methods were developed over the years; some with very high impacts on our planet while others are much more environmentally friendly.
That’s why the main topic at denim trade shows in recent years has been sustainability. How to make the business of making denim and jeans more sustainable. And that’s something Soorty has specialised in.
Back in November, Wouter and I visited Soorty’s NASDA innovation lab in Turkey. With us, we’d each brought a pair of our own worn-in jeans, which we were going to recreate to experience and witness the process.
The result is a three-piece mini-documentary of which the video above is the first episode. Stay tuned for the rest of the adventure here on the blog.
ABOUT SOORTY
Soorty (@soortyenterprises) is a family-owned business that’s grown from a store in Karachi into one of the world’s largest vertically-integrated denim and jeans makers.
With an aim to educate, Soorty hosts events and collaborates with influencers to help spread honest information to a wider audience.
Soorty has also launched Future Possibilities; an on- and offline platform of transparent information aiming to build dialogue between different layers of the supply chain.
This blog post and Denimhunters video production is sponsored by Soorty.
Recreating Denim Fades the Sustainable Way (Episode 2)
During Bluezone back in September last year, Soorty invited me and my buddy Wouter Munnich from Long John to get behind the scenes and see how jeans are made.
In November, we visited Soorty’s NASDA innovation lab in Turkey. With us, we’d each brought a pair of our own worn-in jeans, which we were going to recreate to experience and witness the process.
The result is a three-piece mini-documentary. Episode 1 was published just before New Year’s. Above is episode 2. Stay tuned for the last episode of the adventure here on the blog.
ABOUT SOORTY
Soorty (@soortyenterprises) is a family-owned business that’s grown from a store in Karachi into one of the world’s largest vertically-integrated denim and jeans makers.
With an aim to educate, Soorty hosts events and collaborates with influencers to help spread honest information to a wider audience.
Soorty has also launched Future Possibilities; an on- and offline platform of transparent information aiming to build dialogue between different layers of the supply chain.
Whenever I’m asked what my favourite thing about denim is, my answer is usually something like “the fades.” I’ve realised it’s actually something else!
Running the risk of sounding a little bit corny and pretentious here, my favourite thing about denim, really, is the people!
For a little over a year from May 2018 to August last year, I posted weekly Q&As with what I called ‘Blue Blooded Instagrammers.’ (You can read all of them here.)
It was a great way to get to know some of the people I’ve been following and admire on Instagram. To learn about how they got into denim, their favourite jeans, their stories.
Now, after a short hiatus from sharing the stories of Blue Bloods, we’re ready with something new. And when I say ‘we’ it’s because I’m doing this project with someone else.
Together with my photographer and friend, Brian Engblad aka @oddhunt, I’m launching a series that we’re calling the ‘Blue Blooded Portfolio.’
Takashi ‘Taka’ Okabe from Clutch Magazine.
Pawel Bąbała from Faster Dog in Warsaw, Poland.
Mathieu Peladan from @thedenimmind
Theodoros ‘Thedi’ Pampoukas from Thedi Leathers.
Åse Hansen from Hansen Garments.
The concept is essentially the same the Blue Blooded Q&As; people who’re into denim share their stories. What will make the Portfolio something else is Brian and his photography. Because it’s really quite good!
The first photo session – where all the portraits in this blog post are from – took place at the Men’s File party at Burg & Schild during January’s Berlin Fashion Week.
Phil James from &SONS.
Fredrik Norin from Indigofera.
Matt Wilson from Rope Dye.
Andrew Chen from 3sixteen.
Kay Knipschild from Burg & Schild and Red Wing stores across Germany.
Should you have any desire to download any or all of the portraits in high res (maybe if it’s your face in one of them), you can do so at Brian’s website, oddhunt.com. But please, if you share them, remember to credit Brian.
Stay tuned for the stories of some of these (and many more) of the Blue Bloods that make us love the denim business.
If you have a question you’d like me to answer – maybe in a future blog post – send it to me here. I also offer freelance consulting, which you can learn more about and request here!
This blog post and Denimhunters video production is sponsored by Soorty.
Recreating Denim Fades the Sustainable Way (Episode 3)
Over the past months, we’ve shared the first two episodes of the three-part mini-documentary that we’ve produced about the visit Wouter Munnichs and I paid to Soorty’s NASDA innovation lab in Turkey last autumn. Now, the third and final episode is ready!
The goal of the documentaries has been to spread the word about responsible manufacturing methods and available options in denim production. The went we did that was to each bring of own favourite naturally worn-in raw denim jeans, which they then recreated with the most sustainable materials and methods available.
We wanted to make something that was both informative, transparent and fun at the same time. Throughout the series, Wouter and I talk about our personal experiences with our jeans and the fades.
In episodes 1 (which you can watch right here if you haven’t done so already), we toured the NASDA facilities. In episode 2 (watch it here), we saw how the jeans were cut and sewn.
In the final episode (the one above), we see how the jeans go through the laundry processes to recreate our jeans.
As we see how it’s done, Wouter and I also reflect on why we accepted the invitation to do this project:
Referencing the research I’ve done about the history of jeans, we talk about how pre-washing of denim started with consumers’ demand for ready-to-wear naturally worn-in jeans. And how, today, the vast majority of jeans that’re sold globally are pre-washed.
Therefore, as a self-proclaimed ‘denim marketing expert’ who makes a living freelancing in the denim industry, I need to constantly stay up to date with what’s happening in denim – not only raw denim.
Want to Learn More About Denim?
If you want to learn more about denim, you’ve come to the right place. Denimhunters has hundreds of in-depth resources about denim and jeans. Start with some of our most popular ones here.
Iron Heart’s Alex and Giles Padmore Join Me on The Denim & Boots Podcast
So, what happened to the podcast? Why did it stop just as season 2 was getting going? Did you guys get mad at each other?!
I haven’t counted how many times I’ve been asked questions like these from listeners. But it’s a lot! I know Jake has gotten similar questions. It’s been humbling and very motivational to get it going again.
The true (and less dramatic) reason is simply that we got too busy to make a recording schedule with a 9-hour difference between the two hosts work.
In the trailer we put out last week, we talk more about what happened and what to expect from the podcast going forward. (You can listen to the trailer here.)
We also reveal who we’re planning to bring onto the show. And I’m very excited that we’re launching the season with an interview I did with Alex and Giles Padmore of Iron Heart International.
We talk about how Iron Heart got started. How motorcycling has been a key source of inspiration for the brands and how the garments are designed since day one.
We also talk about heavyweight clothes and the appeal of it, and how Iron Heart do things rather differently online than most other brands. And lastly, we talk about the future of Iron Heart.
You can listen to the podcast in the player above or in your favourite podcast app. While you’re there, make sure you’re subscribed to the show. And if you like it and what us to do more, please leave us a 5-star rating and a positive review.
Need help with your denim business?
The Denim & Boots Podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the platform I started as a blog in 2011 that has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level. Click here to get in touch!
Men’s File’s Editor-in-Chief Takes You on a Tour Around Tokyo
The Clutch Collection Show (often abbreviated the CC Show) in Yokohama, Tokyo is a biannual trade show for and about heritage style fashion. As the name suggests, the show is organised by Clutch Magazine and it’s partner magazine, Men’s File.
Nick Clements
The CC Show is a unique opportunity for buyers and storekeepers from the heritage niche of the fashion scene to discover Japanese brands they wouldn’t otherwise be able to find. For that reason alone, the show attracts visitors from all over North America, Europe and Asia.
The 2020 spring edition of the show was scheduled for March 11-12. But due to the Covid-19 outbreak, the show was cancelled.
Now, with this episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast, you can still go to Tokyo. Sort of.
During the show in October last year, editor-in-chief of Men’s File, Nick Clements, recorded an audio montage as he walked around Tokyo and visited some of his favourite spots in Tokyo.
We got the opportunity to share Nick’s montage as a special collaboration between Men’s File, Denimhunters and The Denim & Boots Podcast.
You’ll hear Nick explain what he sees and the people he talks to (in Japanese!) as he walks around the streets of Tokyo.
You can listen to the podcast in the player above or in your favourite podcast app. While you’re there, make sure you’re subscribed to the show. And if you like it and what us to do more, please leave us a 5-star rating and a positive review.
Need help with your denim business?
The Denim & Boots Podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the platform I started as a blog in 2011 that has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level. Click here to get in touch!
Wouter from Long John Is on the Podcast to Talk Vintage Denim
In this episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast, I’m joined by Wouter Munnichs from Long John to talk about vintage denim.
Wouter has been collecting vintage denim for +15 years, but his passion for denim goes all the way back to the early 90s when I got a job in the first Diesel store in Holland. He was 17 then.
After his time at Diesel, he started a kids brand called Lvis; helped build a successful streetwear brand; and eventually started consulting for the denim industry.
This interview was recorded at the Bluezone trade show in Munich in February 2020.
How to Identify Vintage Levi’s Jeans
In the FAQ of this episode, I share three ways to identify vintage Levi’s jeans.
#1: Check the outseams
Does the jeans have selvedge edges or not? If they do, they might be vintage.
(If you don’t know what selvedge is, this video explains it.)
#2: Check the red tab
Next, you look at the red tab label on the right back pocket. Does it say ‘LEVI’S’ in all capital letters (also known as ‘Big E’) or does it say ‘Levi’s’ with only the L in uppercase?
If there’s a Big E red tab, the jeans might be from before the early 1970s.
3# Check the care tag
The last thing you do is you look at the care label inside. If it’s a big contemporary-looking one with a lot of text on, the jeans are not vintage (but from the LVC collection).
You can read much more about this in the three references I mention:
The Denim & Boots Podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the platform I started as a blog in 2011 that has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level. Click here to get in touch!
Robin Meijerink Shares the Secrets Behind His Success on Instagram
In this episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast, I’m joined by the Insta-famous Robin Meijerink aka Robin Denim.
We talk about Robin’s story, how he got into denim, and what he’s learned from running one of the successful Instagram accounts in the world of raw denim.
Robin’s built an impressive following on his Instagram page, @robindenim, and he also has the website, robindenim.com.
Want better photos for Instagram?
In the FAQ of this episode, I share three tips about how to take better photos for Instagram:
Tip #1: Light is SUPER important
If you don’t have a photo studio available – which I guess most of us don’t – you get the best results from shooting your photos outside in indirect sunlight.
Tip #2: Think about the background
The background that your subject (you, your jeans, whatever) is in front of in your pictures tells the viewer a lot about you.
Bonus tip: Consider using a tripod to better control the background. I use a Huawei AF15 selfie stick, which has a remote Bluetooth shutter, to take most of the photos where I’m in the shot.
Tip #3: Don’t go crazy with editing!
It’s tempting to max out on contrast and definition to really make your fades pop. But be careful, it can easily look unnatural, which you don’t want.
What you should do is try to match the colour tone in your shot with the true colour of the denim. Not too hot, not too cold. That will give you the best result.
For a much more in-depth guide on how to take better photos of your jeans, check out this post.
Need help with your denim business?
The Denim & Boots Podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the platform I started as a blog in 2011 that has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level.
This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John, where Tilmann answers 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions. You can read them here.
Get to know Tilmann Wrobel, a face from the Blue Blooded Portfolio
At the beginning of 2020, we launched the Blue Blooded Portfolio – an ongoing project that portrays the people that make the denim industry what it is.
This blog post launches a series of Q&As with some of the people featured in the portfolio.
Born and raised in Düsseldorf, Germany, but living in France for more than 30 years (first Paris and now Biarritz)
Profession:
A fashion designer “since forever.” Also trained in market research, product marketing and communication. Founded the creative consultancy Monsieur-T. in 2007.
Thomas SB: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Tilmann W: It’s a love story since my early days, and it became a reality when I started working with important denim designers for the Chipie brand in France, back in the late 1980s.
TSB: What was your first pair of jeans?
TW: I think it was a pair of Wranglers, in the early 1970s. Back then, Wrangler had a plastic patch on the back pocket, which we tend to rip off, to either steal it or collect them, don’t really remember that part. But it was the coolest thing to do. Hahaha…
Tilmann and Monsieur-T. is the creative consultant for Bluezone in Munich
TSB: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
TW: In the late 1980s during my time at Chipie in the south of France. We used to travel the world to find forgotten treasures and upcoming trends.
TSB: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
TW: The fact that, once worn in, it’s somehow reflecting a bit of my life, my way of living. I like the fading part a lot. But no fake snuff shadows or that kind of thing!
Tilmann dyeing with indigo in Japan
The two generations of the Manabe family
Tilmann’s views on the denim business
TSB: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
TW: Tough question. There have been design challenges, work challenges, education of kids, love, marriage and divorce, and now this f*cking virus!
Not sure I’ve learned a lot, but I do believe it’s important to keep on going, and do things the way you feel it’s right.
TSB: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
TW: Momotaro and Japan Blue. Katsu and his father are great and inspiring people, for whom I had the chance to work.
Also the authentic Japanese brands and mills in general (Kuroki, Collect, etc.) because of their traditional way of crafting indigo pigment through rope dye into the yarn.
TSB: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
TW: Son of a Stag, Tenue de Nîmes, Jinji, Burg & Schild, and American Rag because of the shopping experience and the focused offer.
Tilmann’s Type II jacket, photographed in 2016 at Kingpins
Tilmann defines his denim style
TSB: What do you never leave home without? And why?
TW: My chain wallet, because my entire life is in there, hahaha!
TSB: List three of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
TW: 1) The Cooper Collection selvedge pant. I designed this pant a few years ago, made from a 15 oz. Blue Selvedge (Berto) fabric, with solid red copper washer rivets and hardware, hand-tinted wooden shuttle loom labels and more. Lean, mean, sturdy, and fully authentic.
2) My LVC Type II selvedge denim “555” jacket. I bought it in 1991, and have worn it for 29 years now, without any wash! It looks so good, it has crossed so many adventures and experiences with me. It’s almost like a part of me.
3) A 20 oz. Oxbow denim I designed 9 years ago when raw denim and heavyweight was still quite an insider thing. I’ve worn this pant since then, it’s become really beautiful.
Tilmann’s face mask style during COVID-19
Want to learn more about Tilmann? The Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John, where Tilmann answers 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions. Check them out here.
Need help with your denim business?
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
This Blue Blooded Q&A series is a collaboration with Long John.
Get to know Peter Rerskov, a face from the Blue Blooded Portfolio
Peter and I go way back. The first time we met was in 2008 or ’09. He was a sales manager at Wrangler, I was a raw denim novice. Today, I’m happy to call him my friend and colleague.
In this second Blue Blooded Q&A of our new series, Peter shares his story.
What’s your story?
Name:
Peter ‘Van’ Rerskov
Location:
Born in Skælskør, lives in Copenhagen
Profession:
Store Manager at Brund Jeans & Boots in Copenhagen (@brundcph)
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Peter: I got my first job in the clothing industry when I was 14. That was in a classic menswear store, so my way into the industry started with suits, blazers, ties, and iron-free shirts.
Years later, after graduation, I started managing the owner’s second store, which was a jeans store. I was there for a few years, then I moved to our capital, and things took off. It became clear to me that I wanted to work with denim, and I still do and want that today.
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
P: I have no idea. But I do recall that mom patched them up since I ripped them playing soccer all the time in school.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
P: Well, hooked and hooked … I like good quality and long-lasting products, but I guess around 2003 or so. I had worn unwashed denim before that, but I started to manage another denim store around that time. And that opened a bit more up to the “holy grails” of unwashed denim, started digging into history, the fabrication, the myths and so on.
Peter’s Iron Heart 634-XHS
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
P: Putting on a pair of new jeans, wearing them, washing them, repairing them, I don’t really focus on the fades and wear days cause they will evolve eventually. I might have done that 12 years ago, but then I grew up, haha …
Wear, wash, repair, repeat.
Peter’s views on the denim business
T: What’s been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
P: You cannot have your cake and eat it too. Well, I can’t really say anything else than if you fall down, get back up the best way possible.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
P: ‘If you’re gonna do it, then do it right’ has always been a saying that I like and respect.
There are many good ones, and there are many not so good ones.
If I should highlight one brand that I adore both wearing but also working with, it must be Iron Heart. In all aspects, their level is always on top.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
P: Many, and I’m proud to call them colleagues and some of them friends.
As I like genuine stuff, I also like and respect genuine people, doing honest work, preaching the same values that I have. In general, shallow people can go f*ck themselves
Peter defines his denim style
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
P: I don’t really use things or clothes to define “my style or myself” in any way.
I’ll wear a suit for that occasion, my jeans, boots and a shirt for daily business, and a pair of worn-out jogging pants and crocs in the cabin.
As long as you wear your clothes and the clothes are not wearing you. Then you can basically wear everything.
That said, I have a few things that I like a bit more than others:
1) My signet ring with my mom and dads initials. My sis has the same ring, we had them made to honour our parents
2) Bandanas. I almost always wear a bandana, not around the head or in the back pocket, but around the neck.
3) Blue jeans. I think I’ve only had like fives pairs of black jeans in my entire life. Its blue jeans or nothing!
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
P: My iPhone, wallet and keys, ‘cuz I need to make a call, be online, pay for stuff, and lock and unlock stuff
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Peter? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. To read Peter’s answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions, visit long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
Until not that long ago, Robin’s story wasn’t really public knowledge. Although the camera clearly loves his face (and fades), it wasn’t until I interviewed him on video a few years that I learned his story. Recently, I also interviewed Robin on the podcast and got even more details.
In this Q&A, you’ll read the story of how Robin completely messed up when he had to steam clean his jeans.
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Robin: More than a decade ago, two good friends of mine went to Tenue de Nîmes and both bought a pair of Japanese selvedge denim jeans. At that time, raw denim was completely new for me, and I didn’t understand what it was all about.
The two guys convinced me to go to the store, and I tried on a few pairs of jeans. They werenøt comfortable, they were expensive, and the idea of not washing the jeans wasn’t really appealing to me.
In the end, I bought a pair of RGT SKs and started wearing them while it was around 25°C – it was bloody hot! In the first three weeks, I didn’t enjoy wearing the jeans at all. But once the first fades appeared, I was hooked!
Life as a denim influencer can be, well, revealing
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
R: A 14 oz. Rogue Territory SK, which I wore for 18 months straight.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
R: After a few weeks of wearing my first pair of jeans, when the first fades started to show, I was completely hooked!
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
R: I enjoy every single stage of the fading process. The first few weeks, when the fabric is still rigid. When you get the first signs of fades. After a few months when the fades start looking really nice.
But, once I wash a pair of jeans, I usually start wearing a new pair because it feels too much like a pair of pyjama pants.
Robin visiting Japan
Robin’s views on the denim business
T: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
R: A few years ago, when I still lived in Utrecht, I had a bathroom without a window. After wearing a pair of jeans for about 18 months, without a single wash or soak, they smelled like a wet dog. I read on a forum that steam could help get rid of the smell without washing a pair of jeans.
So, when I took a shower, I hung my jeans in the bathroom in order to ‘steam clean’ the jeans. What happened was that the ‘wet dog’ smell was in the bathroom for a few weeks, a few fights with my ex-girlfriend, and the jeans were still smelling like they have been rotting for a while.
After that experience, I threw the jeans in the washing machine, and the results were amazing!
Tip: You could also hand wash you jeans. Learn how to in this video guide.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
R: There are many denim brands that inspire me for various reasons. But, if I need to narrow it down, the denim brands that inspire me the most come from Japan. Why? Because of its heritage, expertise, and fabrics.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
R: Tenue de Nîmes. One of the best denim stores in the world. Fantastic collection, experienced customer service, great team!
Robin almost always wears a chambray shirt
Robin defines his denim style
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
R: 1) A pair of jeans.A good pair of jeans is the foundation of my outfit. I usually wear a pair of jeans in between 14 and 16 oz. of weight. Why? Because it’s rigid and stiff enough without being unwearable. And because I can wear it all year round.
2) Chambray shirt. Five out of the seven days a week, I wear a chambray shirt. The combination with denim is perfect, it’s comfortable and suitable for every occasion. I own about 20 blue chambray shirts and most people will not see the difference, but I do!
3) Sneakers. Although I love to wear a solid pair of boots in the winter, I wear comfortable sneakers on most days.
With a pair of high-top Converse or Vans, combined with a pair of jeans and a chambray shirt, you can’t go wrong!
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
R: A leather cardholder! I never leave home without a leather cardholder. The one I’m carrying now isn’t super special, it’s just holding all my cards.
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Robin? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. To read Peter’s answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions, visit long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
This Blue Blooded Q&A series is a collaboration with Long John.
Get to know Guido Wetzels, a face from the Blue Blooded Portfolio
In this Q&A, you’ll get to meet one of the unsung heroes of our industry. Guido is a denimhead through and through. But he also knows more about the technical side of denim than most of us.
Just like the previous Blue Blooded Q&As with Tilmann, Peter and Robin, Guido’s portrait here was shot by Brian Engblad for our Blue Blooded Portfolio.
Technical support for brands for wash/finishing issues on denim, prototypes, samples, bulk worldwide. My other job is being the co-founder of Blaumann Jeanshosen.
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Guido: After studying textile print and dyeing, I got a job offer from Mustang (German jeans brand). They were looking for a ‘jeans washing technician assistant’ to give technical support to their own facilities. At that time, this meant in Hungary, Russia and Portugal.
All you needed was a textile diploma—special denim knowledge was welcome but not a must, which was good because I had no f*cking clue about jeans. About indigo yes, that I learned, but that was all.
Guido with Blaumann exhibiting at Selvedge Run
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
G: Afraid to say it, but I guess it was a Palomino, a private label brand from German retail giant C&A.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
G: Quite late. Due to my job visiting laundries all over the world, to me, ‘raw’ always meant “work to do, not finished yet.”
Over the years, the more I got into the technical details of how to turn raw items into artificially aged jeans, the more I got interested in doing that the only correct way; by wearing them frequently yourself.
Then it was a short step to raw selvedge jeans. One of my clients, who runs a denim mill in Asia, owns a huge range of shuttle looms, and from that time it was never again a non-selvedge and washed jean for me.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
G: The way the fabric changes week after week as you break them in. I’m still happy like a kid when I see the first whiskers and marks on a new project.
Photo credit: CROS
Guido’s views on the denim business
T: What‘s been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
G: Starting my own brand, Blaumann, which began with the crazy idea to see what’s possible in Germany. This was back in 2013.
With our contacts, it would have been easy to launch a small brand with small volumes somewhere in North Africa or Asia. But we decided to produce as much as possible in Germany.
The ambitious requirements were: cut and made in Germany, all fabric and trims made in Germany. Selvedge, classic handcrafted details, raw.
It wasn’t that easy to say the least. Fabric we could skip immediately from our list. No german denim weaver survived and nobody of them did ever selvedge.
Trims were still possible to source in Germany. The biggest problem was the manufacturing. That part drove us crazy.
The first pants looked like they were hand-stitching blindfolded. It was a desaster. After one year, we finally found a guy who was able to do it and who was also interested in doing it.
Nobody was really too serious about our project. Everybody kept telling us that there would be no market for locally produced jeans because they would too expensive.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
G: All brands that are into details and all brands with a history. Japanese brands all have both of it, the story and the details.
Hidden rivets, special colour selvedges, super special multi-count warp yarn, all that stuff. So let’s say I’m a fan of Edwin, Samurai and Momotaro.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
G: First of all, there’s 14 oz., owned by Karl-Heinz Müller. He was knee-deep into that stuff when nobody in Germany was even thinking about raw selvedge denim. That guy invented the Bread & Butter show, and with 14 oz. in Berlin, he started the first heritage denim store where you could buy Red Wing boots, some Japanese denims, and all the other things you couldn’t find anywhere else.
Today, we have a lot of cool retailers all over Europe and I really still love the experience of finding new brands I’ve never heard of before in those locations. These retailers are always on the hunt for new brands and stories they can present to their customers.
Photo credit: Südwesttextil
Guido defines his denim style
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
G: Red Wing boots, Blaumann jeans in our Karotte style (made from 15 oz. denim), and a vest (currently I’m wearing one from Captain Santors)
I know it’s the typical ‘heritage unifom,’ but I like it.
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
G: Okay, my phone, I guess like 99% of us. But I also always have my four-colour golden metal ballpoint pen with me, which my father got as a merchandise gift in the 70s. To make sure I never lose it, I have it attached to a short Emma Optiz pencil leather lanyard.
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Guido? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl. To learn more about Blaumann, check out their website.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
This Blue Blooded Q&A series is a collaboration with Long John.
Get to know Andrew Chen, a face from the Blue Blooded Portfolio
As I remember it, Andrew and I first met at Bread & Butter in Berlin in the summer of 2012. Since then, we’ve stayed in touch, hung out when we’re in the same city, and supported each other. A genuinely nice guy, who’s accomplished a lot!
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Andrew: We started making jeans in 2008 as part of our first full collection. Johan, my partner, had already been getting into raw selvedge denim at that time and so naturally our first pair of jeans had to be raw, indigo, and selvedge.
From there, our friendship with Kiya Babzani of Self Edge helped us to learn and grow; his feedback helped us refine our offering, and him bringing our jeans into his shop gave them added legitimacy.
The jeans took off over the next few years so we put our heads down and worked to keep improving the product while fighting to meet demand.
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
A: My first pair of jeans that I actually remember wanting to buy were Levi’s Silver tabs. I had to convince my parents to let me get them. My first pair of raws were regular old Levi’s 501 STFs, and the first pair that I bought with the intention of fading were A.P.C. New Standards.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
A: Once I realized that wearing in a pair of raw denim produced results that no wash house in the world could replicate, that was it for me.
The first pair that I think I was really proud of in terms of how they faded were my Skull 5010xx from Self Edge; I bought them from Kiya years before I became a partner in the New York store.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
A: They are easy to care for and don’t require any special treatment or babying. It’s nice to be able to grab them, throw them on, wear them and wash them in a machine without worrying about what’s going to happen to them. The sheer utility and durability of them, I guess.
3sixteen also make amazing flannels. In 2015, they made an Eames lounge chair collab
Andrew’s views on the denim business
T: What has been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
A: Our greatest challenge in recent memory is probably what we are going through as a brand right now: navigating COVID-19 and the difficulties a global pandemic presents to our small business. I’ll let you know what we learned from it when we’re on the other side.
If you need our help getting your business through the crisis, we can help you. Learn more about what we can do and schedule a consultation here.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
A: I always love seeing what Atsu at Stevenson Overall Company is up to. Their jeans are a clinic in attention to detail and I love walking customers through all their unique qualities in person at Self Edge. Their collections are always chock full of surprises, from unexpected fabrics and silhouettes to unique hidden details that you only find after you’ve bought the garment.
Our designer, Wesley Scott, has pointed me towards fashion designers who use raw denim in ways that are different from a typical workwear-derivative manner, so now I pay attention to brands like Studio Nicholson and Lemaire and the manner in which they use denim in their collections to give heritage-inspired silhouettes an interesting twist.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
A: I hope I can still say Self Edge even though I am now a partner in the NY and LA shops, because I was a customer and a fan of the store before I came on board the business.
I credit Kiya and Demitra with putting our market onto many of the brands from Japan that are household names with denim enthusiasts today.
Andrew defines his denim style
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
A: 1) This may be a bit of recency bias, but I wore our 3sixteen Selvedge Fatigues more than any jeans this past year. I think it’s because of how roomy they are; after trying to avoid straight legs for many years because I felt like they were unflattering on me, I’ve embraced it.
I do still have denim in the rotation and am excited to pick up a pair of CS jeans—our vintage 47 501 repro cut that we used to make but discontinued—when we release them once again later this year.
2) My Good Art Model 10 bracelet I mentioned above. I used to wear very little jewelry outside of a ring or two and Good Art changed that. It’s something that I look forward to putting on every day.
3) I have two pairs of Viberg Ropers. They are more comfortable than any other boot I own and the roughout leathers look even better when they are thrashed. I love not having to tie laces.
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
A: My Good Art Model 10 bracelet and my Teranishi Studio minimalist wallet. Because you gotta stunt every day no matter where you’re going and you also gotta have money to pay for things.
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Andrew? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
This Blue Blooded Q&A series is a collaboration with Long John.
Get to know Matthew Wilson, a face from the Blue Blooded Portfolio
Matt and I go back. Way back. He was one of the first guest writers for Denimhunters (in 2013), and for a couple of years, we were business partners, running this site together.
Today, Denimhunters is all me, and Matt does Rope Dye and Cee.Are.Dee (together with Daniel Werner). He’s made a successful career running a YouTube vlog, organising trade shows (Selvedge Run and SEEK), and as a creative consultant.
Through it all, we’ve stayed good friends, and I’m very happy to share his story in his Blue Blooded Q&A.
M: The first that I remember was a pair of Wranglers that my mum got me when I was about 8 or so. She’d probably got them in the local farm supply store or one of the factory outlets. She was quite the typical Scottish mum, always looking for a bargain.
I don’t remember very much about them to be honest but I do remember being quite upset when the knees went white and eventually ripped. Ironic, I know, as nowadays I would see this as a sick fade.
My first proper pair of selvedge denim jeans was a pair of Nudie Average Joes that I picked up in a TK Maxx in Berlin. I obviously inherited the thrifty gene.
I wore those things for 18 months straight with no washes or soaks (aside from a couple of times I was caught in the rain) and over four continents. When I got back from an extended stint in Turkey, my old flatmate told me it was either wash the jeans or move out… so in the tub, they went.
Seeing the bathwater was enough to convince me that the no-wash policy was not a good one. They still remain the best-faded pair of jeans I’ve ever worn though.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
M: It must have been quite soon after I found my first piece of raw denim, an Evisu jacket. This was also a TK Maxx find. You can’t fight your genetics.
I was just filing through the rails as you do when you are in TK Maxx. I knew the Evisu brand from back in the day and to be honest, had a pretty negative association with it. In Scotland, it was a brand worn by the N.E.D’s (Non-Educated Delinquents) and all of the history and cultural significance didn’t make it as far as Edinburgh in the early 2000s.
But as soon as I put my hands on it, I could feel there was something different about the material. It wasn’t denim as I had experienced it before. The crispness, the weight, the deep indigo tone.
Compared to what I was used to paying for clothing, it was quite expensive at 80 euros (I know, I know, things have certainly changed). I hummed and hawed a long time but eventually, I thought, ‘why not’ and treated myself.
The hangtags had a load of marketing material and blurb about raw denim and selvedge denim. I read this and was engrossed. I learned everything I could about it and was drawn permanently into the world of denim.
Funnily enough, the jacket was not really all that special in terms of raw denim. Yeah, it was Evisu, but the international brand and had nothing to do with Japan. It was made in China out of presumably Chinese made denim (not slamming Chinese made here, just to be clear).
But the cut, quality and detailing is right up there with the best of them. It was clearly designed by a denimhead and is one of the best contemporary twists on a Type I jacket I’ve ever come across.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
M: Ooft, this is a hard one to answer. Unlike many denimheads, it is not the ability it has to fade or the narrative you put into your garment. It goes a little parallel to that, there is a cultural narrative to denim and I find this fascinating.
As a fabric, and with the blue jean as an extension to this, it has been there for so many cultural and historical shifts. It has an arc that I believe is unique in terms of fashion or maybe even clothing in general.
I have this hair-brained theory that in the development of any product, there’s a stage where it reaches a point of perfection. Whatever it might be can’t get any better. You reach an archetype. Or maybe Platonic eidos would be a better way to put it. Denim might just be that for fabric. At least so far.
Matt and Daniel Werner in Vietnam in 2018
Matt’s views on the denim business
T: What‘s been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
M: Hmm, in terms of life or in terms of denim?
In life, it was getting meningitis (or some other nasty brain thing) in Asia back in 2018. This was a rough ride and a long road to recovery. It taught me to never eat a meal on a train in Asia and reinforced how important, no essential, my friends are.
Wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for the quick thinking of Mr Daniel Padilla Werner and would not be at the stage of recovery I am now without the help, patience and support from a long list of people. You know who you are.
In terms of denim, it was a pair of 22 oz. Steel Feather jeans. I learned that unsanforized denim should never be mixed with a zip fly or a slim cut. And also that heavy denim is really NOT my thing.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
M: More with the impossible questions, haha. This will take a while.
Benzak Denim Developers because the founder Lenn is such a good friend and I have seen the work and dedication he has put into his brand.
Endrime because Mohsin pushes our expectation and views on what can be done with denim and that he is so open with his knowledge and designs.
Freenote Cloth for the vibe the brand manages to exude.
3sixteen because of their ability to translate selvedge denim into a contemporary context and interpret the inherent qualities of selvedge denim into all the pieces in their collection.
Left Field NYC because they are pure East Coast grit.
Eat Dust, Indigofera, shit this list could be endless … Okay, I need to stop.
The honeycombs on Matt’s Average Joes
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
Stuff Fine Goods must have one of the best selections of denim and clothing in general. Everything in the store you just WANT to have.
Tenue de Nîmes I just find inspiring on every level. What Menno and the rest of the guys at TdN have managed to do in terms of selection, store vibe, store look and feel and community is truly amazing. I also really respect the fact that they have taken the “brand” that was the store and created a clothing brand from their core values.
Burg & Schild is my local denim store and they are incredible at supporting and fostering the denim community in and around Berlin.
Last but not least, DC4, this is THE place to see some really unique Japanese denim and the owner Daniel is an encyclopedia of denim knowledge and stories from the early years of quality denim hitting Europe.
Matt in Tokyo in 2018
Matt defines his denim style
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
M: I have three rings that I seldom leave home without. Two are from Fine Light Trading. The third was made by 877 Workshop in Hamburg. This is a signet ring that carries our company logo. Both Daniel and I have one.
I like the idea that these rings are something that I could literally wear every day for a lifetime and hand down to my children. They are also big, heavy and if they fall off I notice it immediately. This is the main reason why I’ve not lost them over the last 7 years. Gingerly knocks on wood.
Matt’s rings
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
M: 1) Well. Number one, the rings I mentioned above. They are a bit of a contradiction style-wise, and I love that. Yeah, the size is practical in terms of keeping the things on my fingers long term, but they are also bold, brash and kinda impractical.
They go with nothing so they go with everything. They are a great conversation starter but people tend to assume certain things about me along with that. I dunno really. I have had them for so long now that they are just part of my style and not really a definition of it.
2) Number 2 has to be hats. And not just one—well, one at a time, most of the time—but a variety of different styles depending on my mood, weather and whatever it is I’m about to get up to.
Men should start wearing proper hats again and wearing them well. If you see a man wearing a hat well, you know, that he knows. And I want to be part of that. Sometimes I fuck it up though. Which is also important style-wise.
3) Last but not least is the Left Field NYC x Vanson Commando leather jacket. In my eyes, it is just the perfect leather jacket.
Like the rings, it’s big and heavy. Bold, brash and kinda impractical. But is fucking cool and when the zombie apocalypse comes, nothing is biting through that thing!
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Matt? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
Is this the podcast for you? Listen to the trailer find out
Welcome to the Denimhunters Podcast. Whether denim is your passion or your profession (or maybe both), this is the podcast for you. In this trailer, you get a preview of what it’ll be all about:
Just like the blog posts and everything else here on Denimhunters, this podcast tackles some of the big questions about denim and jeans.
Often, one question leads to another, and on this podcast, I talk to denim personalities and experts, to hear their inspiring stories, but also to get their answers to some of these questions.
The podcast launches on June 1, 2020. In the first episode, I talk to a true denim hunter, Brit Eaton. You do not want to miss this episode!
Make sure you’re subscribed to the show wherever you get your podcasts and stay tuned for the first episode.
Oh, and one last thing: if you have any questions that you’d like me and my guests to answer, you can submit them here.
Need help with your denim business?
This podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the online platform you’re on right now. The site started as a blog in 2011 and has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level.
Born in Italy, lived in Italy, the UK, Canada, and the USA. For the last 20 years, I’ve called California home, currently living in Palm Springs.
Profession:
Help brands, retailers, manufacturers on branding, marketing, design and general strategy. Mostly in denim and denim related areas.
Instagram:
I only use LinkedIn for business reasons, I actually find all the other so-called “social” networks to be the antithesis of “social” and a waste of time and bandwidth!
Stefano’s path into the denim business
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Stefano: By accident. I was in the textile world already and got headhunted to join a top denim mill.
At that time, I thought it would be the easiest job in the world—’how difficult could it be, it’s all blue and it comes in three weights,’ I was thinking.
But I soon realized how complex the whole process of making denim fabric and jeans is, and how hard it is to make really great ones.
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
S: I remember two, from my childhood, not sure which one came first.
One was from a brand that disappeared (and then returned) called Roy Rogers, I remember the zippered back pocket.
The other ones were Wrangler, my dad’s company was doing work for VF Europe at the time and he got me some rigid 13MWZ; I wore the hell out of those!
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
S: As my knowledge of denim increased, I started wearing more and more (real) vintage pieces, hunting second hand stores and flea markets around the world, always looking for the perfect pair.
The more I did that, the more I realized that industrial laundered jeans, as great as some of them were, never looked “real”, and I never bought another pair of washed jeans; all my jeans since then were either made for/by me and worn rigid, or old vintage.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
S: I actually like everything about them, the way they look, how they feel, even how they smell. The fact that they keep changing over time and become unique is the key.
I think they fit better too since they gradually mould to your shape (I NEVER wear stretch jeans, by the way).
Stefano often speaks at industry events
Stefano’s views on the denim business
T: What‘s been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
S. It’s ongoing; we must try to clean up our act, this industry is dirty, wasteful and polluting. We did not know it in the past and made a lot of questionable choices.
Now that we know that we can do better, we must push everybody to change and educate customers.
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
S: The obvious answer is the original ones, like Levi’s or Lee, because they—along with many other obscure and long disappeared smaller brands—created a product that has not changed much in 150 years.
Vintage is always the main source of inspiration, so even when we want to make something really modern we must study our past.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
S: I think we all end up going to the same stores in NYC, LA, London, Paris, Tokyo, etc. There are so many good ones that I would rather not name any, it would be a long list.
I tend to prefer the ones who have a strong point of view and surprise the customer with unexpected, unknown brands and/or a great presentation.
Stefano defines his denim style
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
S: One of my cameras, I am super passionate about photography. I will also have a notepad—I discovered this Remarkable device, it’s all digital so I do not waste paper and I can file my notes on my computer, but it still feels like writing on paper.
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
S: 1) Comfortable (and stylish) shoes, I always like to walk a lot when I travel;
2) a neat bag to carry my cameras, sunglasses, notepads, etc.) and
3) a hat—I started shaving my head a long time ago, so I have no hairstyle options, and hats are the perfect touch to complete any outfit.
My style is really personal, I never follow trends, even though I often find that things I like will end up being very popular all of a sudden!
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Stefano? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
Brit Eaton joins Thomas on Episode #1 of the Denimhunters Podcast
Brit Eaton aka @originalindianajeans on Instagram is a true denim hunter. The kind that risks his life on a daily basis going into abandoned mines searching for old denim and jeans. That’s his profession, and he’s been doing it for more than 20 years.
On this very first episode of the Denimhunters Podcast, I talk to Brit about why and how he does what he does.
He shares the story of how it all started when he was exporting Harley Davidsons in the mid-90s; how he almost ended up in prison in Greece; and about piles of vintage denim and lost treasures.
Brit also answers listeners questions submitted through this page by Wouter from Long John.
This podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the online platform you’re on right now. The site started as a blog in 2011 and has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level.
Indigofera is not like any other denim brand out there. It’s got a unique vibe to it, which I talk more about in this brand profile I did earlier.
The brand launched in 2009. At that time, I was working part-time in one of the brand’s first retailers, [ei’kon], and I still wear my Norris shirt (below) from their first collection. So, we go back, Indigofera and me.
Proof it’s been worn (a lot)
Name:
Mats Andersson
Location:
Sweden. I live in the countryside outside of Stockholm, in a place called Saltsjö-Boo.
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Mats: I started collecting vintage denim and jackets in my early 20s. Selvedge stuff and whatnot.
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
M: Don’t know or remember, but I had Lee, Levi’s and unbranded stuff in my wardrobe from a young age, around the time I started in school, as I remember it.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
M: That was the only thing available when I grew up, so I was hooked if I liked it or not. And I did! Never had thought jeans should be in another way. But I do remember my first pre-washed jeans, that was a hoot.
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
M: I love the crisp feeling of putting on a pair of unwashed jeans. A pair of well made raw jeans have longevity and durability built in to the product. That means they will function in my daily life for many years if I treat them well. They will age with me and will look beautiful doing so.
In the end, it solves a problem and that is you have to wear something every day, and with a good pair of jeans, you do not have to think so much in the morning what you gonna wear.
Mats with musician, Israel Nash
Mats’ views on the denim business
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
M: There are more but I’ll give you three:
1) Iron Heart for their consistency and vision of what they want be and are. Like us, they develop many fabrics that are unique to them. I respect that process.
2) Kapital for their playfulness with indigo, and in general digging into old techniques of fabric and sewing.
3) Levi’s because of their branding and being one of the brands inventing this category we call blue jeans.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
M: There are too many to name them all, but I’ll give you three again:
Working with craftsmanship as indigo dyeing, hand mending in the store, and mixing that with a unique vintage selection and great brands from across the world.
They are at the forefront in the US market, creating interesting collaborations with the brands they carry and introducing new brands to the US market from Japan and Europe.
They were early on with the biker culture and developed the heritage scene, evolving and bringing interesting brands to the German market. Always strong look and was early with an online store in Germany.
Mats defines his denim style
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
M: Proper boots, jeans and a T-shirt. It always saves the day. Well, I do need my phone also …
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
M: I often wear a leather vest over my T-shirt. Good layer piece and extra pockets; great style too, it can bring up anything you are wearing a notch or two.
Engineer boots because they’re practical and protective, and because they look good and give your outfit an extra kick.
My Havstad hat, custom made for me in Oregon by Cate Havstad. Fits like a glove and always gives my posture a push. Stylish and functional when I travel, whether it rains or the sun shines, it protects me.
Need help with your denim business?
Want to learn more about Mats? This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
Bryan from the Indigo Invitational Tells His Story on the Podcast
In the second episode of the Denimhunters Podcast, I talk to Bryan Szabo, the founder of the Indigo Invitational fade competition.
Bryan’s been guest blogging here on Denimhunters since last autumn, sharing denim knowledge that’s particularly relevant for faders and spectators of the competition he started last year. (You can read all those posts here—including a Q&A I did with Bryan before he began guest blogging.)
On the podcast, Bryan tells the story of how it all began. How he got into denim in the first place. About his first pair of raws (Average Joes from Nudie). About ballroom dancing (yes, you read that right). And how he ended up living in Budapest in Hungary.
Naturally, we talk about the Indigo Invitational and why he started it. And what he expects and hopes for its second year, which starts on October 1, 2020.
Need help with your denim business?
This podcast is brought to you by Denimhunters, the online platform you’re on right now. The site started as a blog in 2011 and has become a voice for the denim industry and community.
Today, Denimhunters is a consultancy platform, driven by a team of independent and multidisciplinary pioneers, specialising in business development and communication in the global denim industry.
We direct denim business through insights, creativity and action. And we can help you take your business to the next level.
For readers of Denimhunters (and denimheads in general), Ruedi Karrer really needs no introduction.
He’s been wearing and collecting raw denim since before most of us were born. He’s dedicated his life to his denim passion, driven by a vision to establish an independent jeans museum.
I’ve known Ruedi for some 7-8 years, and we’ve become close friends. Last year, supported by Candiani, I helped him realise and document his dream of making his very own jeans.
In case you haven’t seen the documentary about the project (which I co-directed), I’ve inserted it at the end of this Q&A.
Thomas: How did you get into (the world of) denim?
Ruedi: We received two pairs of Levi’s jeans in a clothing donation parcel in 1973. Raw denim became a fetish for me quickly with an important status symbol of being a rebel like movie and rock stars such as James Dean, Elvis, Status Quo, and others.
T: What was your first pair of jeans?
R: Those two secondhand Levi’s 501 and 505 Big E from the mid-60s, which I had to share with my brothers.
T: When did you know you were ‘hooked’ on raw denim?
R: When I turned 14 years old (in 1973).
T: What is your favourite thing about raw denim?
R: The whole natural ageing progress of any raw denim jeans or denim jacket showing the full power of denim evolution at its best, reflecting a part of the owner’s personal life.
Ruedi at the reveal of his jeans at Bluezone in September 2019
Ruedi with Alberto Candiani, Manuel Canova, and Simon Giuliani
Ruedi’s views on the denim business
T: What‘s been the greatest challenge you’ve faced so far, and what did you learn from it?
R: I have to accept that I can‘t convince all raw denimheads to never ever wash their raw denim gear and to never ever throw it away. And that most items will be thrown away someday, although this is killing my raw denim heart every day!
I also faced the reality that it’s not easy to start with a new raw denim brand when you have quite some limitations. But, despite this, it was amazing that I could realise my 60th birthday Swiss Jeans Freak jeans with the help of many people.
Another unforgettable lifetime experience is to meet the incredible raw denim enthusiasts of the crazy Indonesian raw denim community, fighting hard against the tropical sweat fade every day!
Ruedi’s green cast BBD jeans
Ruedi with Lennaert Nijgh from BDD
T: Which denim brands inspire you? And why?
R: G-Star with their US Lumber model and Lennaert’s BDD and Eat Dust and Atelier La Durance with great screencast jeans. But I live also very much the old-styled raws from Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler and the entry-level brands like A.P.C., Edwin or Nudie like hell as well.
I also love other small raw denim brands like Tellason, Pike Brothers, RGT, Blaumann, Grivec, Indigofera, Pace, Denim Demon, W.H. Ranch Dungarees and some Indonesian brands like Oldblueco or Sage or Nbdn, and of course the Japanese brands so much. I just can’t list them all.
T: Which denim retailers inspire you? And why?
R: I like VMC in Zurich with a great assortment, Statement Store in Munich with amazing faded samples, Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam Burg & Schild in Berlin, Göteborg Manufaktur in Goteborg, but I know that I haven’t seen all the stores outside Europe.
Notice the socks-in-sandals
Ruedi defines his denim style
T: What do you never leave home without? And why?
R: I usually have one pair of jeans on my legs except for those very hot summer days when I switch to shorts or for swimming.
T: List 3 of your favourite garments or accessories and (try to) explain how they define your style
R: Lee’s blanket-lined Storm Rider denim jacket is my favourite jacket style for the office and for skiing.
Any green cast jeans like from BDD, Lee, Eat Dust or my Swiss Jeans Freak jeans is a must for my legs.
And of course my legendary sandals
Ready for More Q&As?
If you want to learn more about Ruedi, check out all the previous posts we’ve published about him here.
This Blue Blooded Q&A is a collaboration with Long John. Read his answers to the 10 ‘what’s your favourite’ questions at long-john.nl.
If you want to stay up to date with what’s happening here at Denimhunters, sign up for our email newsletter.
Did you know we also offer freelance consulting? Learn more about how we can help you take your business to the next level here!
